Much had also changed. Now there are broken windows, rot, rusting bed frames and paint falling away in great blisters and peels. And now there are tourists, participating in what may be the strangest vacation excursion available in the former Soviet space: the packaged tour of the Chernobyl exclusion zone, scene of the worst civilian disaster of the nuclear age.
A 19-mile radius around the infamous power plant, the zone has largely been closed to the world since Chernobyl’s Reactor No. 4 exploded on April 26, 1986, sending people to flight and exposing the Communist Party as an institution wormy with hypocrisy and lies.
For nearly 20 years it has been a dark symbol of Soviet rule. Its name conjures memories of incompetence, horror, contamination, escape and sickness, as well as the party elite’s disdain for Soviet citizens, who were called to parade in fallout on May Day while the leaders’ families secretly fled.
Now it is a destination, luring people in. “It is amazing,” said Ilkka Jahnukainen, 22, as he wandered the empty city here that housed the plant’s workers and families, roughly 45,000 people in all. “So dreamlike and silent.”
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