Time was that America had a thriving beer culture that rivaled anything in the world. Sadly, what pride American brewing had was wiped out by thirteen years of prohibition, when quality took a distant backseat to the expediencies of producing, smuggling, distributing and vending something that could earn you a jail sentence at any step of the way. By the time beer production started up again Americans had practically forgotten what good beer tastes like. Even today any of us can step back in time and experience the cheaply-produced swill sold in the wake of prohibition; just walk to the corner bar and order a Coors. For a brief time local breweries supplied beer worth its name, but as mass marketing and the romance of industrial progress grew through the 1950’s Americans’ beer experience became increasingly limited to five or six mega-breweries.
In 1965 Frederick Maytag III, an heir to the appliance fortune, bought a controlling stake in the local Anchor brewery for a few thousand dollars. He liked their signature brew, an unusual Steam beer that involves brewing lager yeast at ale temperatures, and preferred to make the beer himself rather than let it go out away entirely. Over the next fifteen years the demand for Maytag’s beer reached the point that his quality-focused brewing strategy could not possibly keep up. Thoudands of homebrewers gladly filled the gap and founded local breweries and brewpubs across the country. Following Maytag’s example the idea of commercial microbrewing became a fixture of the American brew scene. If American microbrewing has a Godfather Anchor’s Steam beer would be it.
We don’t get Anchor Steam much here in Pittsburgh (ergo the ‘micro’ in microbrewing) so I jumped at the chance to pick up a sixpack at Kazansky’s. Plenty of carbonation there, if you’re used to the usual high-ABV American micro you will find yourself burying your nose in foam to keep the overflow from spilling onto the table. The nose advertises malt with a hint of fruit (citrus to me, although some BAers say peach) and just enough hops to know you’re in America.
Expectations might have influenced my judgment somewhat but this beer could easily pass as the godfather and progenitor of the American microbrewing style. Citrus malt comes forward first alongside the carbonated bite, followed by a lingering hoppy aftertaste. You find only moderately more hops here than in, say, your average English ale but one can imagine how that slight imbalance could set off a growing demand for hoppy beers that has reached its climax in today’s Godzilla-big show dogs (I’m looking at you, Lagunitas). As for whether this makes a good summer beer for pairing with any sort of food, suffice to say that this is another beer that I had a hard time reviewing because my wife kept getting to it first.
Jack Rich
I first had an Anchor Steam on a business trip to the Bay area some 20 years ago. And I was hooked.
Since it wasn’t available back home in Virginia, me and my buds used to swig more than was probably good for us while we were on TDY in or around San Francisco.
Did I write “probably?” I know that what I did wasn’t good for my physical health; there’s nothing like trying to conduct serious government business on a beer hangover…
And then, 10 years ago, I discovered Anchor Porter…still my favorite porter.
Anchor makes some of the best beers on the planet; drink some today if you can get it.
Punchy
Much obliged, Timothy. Best friggin’ beer in Amercia, IMO.
Pb
I had that beer once, and it tasted horrible–but I think it was skunked. Then again, I’m no beer snob.
Keith
Their X-Mas ale is excellent as well. Lots of complex flavors, but hard as hell to find…much more so than Steam.
sockpuppet in training
If Anchor Steam got a bad review, you would have lost a reader. Good day sir !
Dave
Luckliy I live in San Fran. It’s about that only “Commercial” beer I drink (calling it commercial because it’s all over the place out here). Agreed their porter is amazing, still my favorite. I often hang out at a bar located spitting distance from the brewery.
Serria Nevada is another bigger micro you might be able to find elsewhere. They introduced me to the highly hopped IPA. No longer a favorite of mine (simply because I’m burnt out on it).
Racer 5 from Bear Republic is my current favorite IPA. http://www.bearrepublic.com/
I feel lucky to have so many great micros in this area, although I do find it interesting that PBR is making a huge come back in San Francisco.
foolishmortal
Wow. What taste. Yes, Anchor Steam is the proto-micro: good quality beer brewed in enough quantity to satisfy a large county, but not much more. I don’t hold truck with its variants, but a proper anchor is a joy to drink: the rich man’s Sam Adams.
As to Sierra, I have to imagine it’s too mainstream to necessitate a mention here. It’s wonderful enough that any beer snob worthy of the term has tasted it, and is quite available anywhere civilised. More deserving of the connoisseur’s mention is the Pyramid line. Brewed at the little bit between Seattle and the Olympic Peninsula, Pyramid has demonstrated a mastery of the ale. Porter, heffeweizen, or blonde: it’s all quite tasty.
Btw: Tim F.: I might have missed an episode, but what is your opionion of the Ommegang, relative to Chimay?
Jason P.
Anchor Steam is a favorite of mine, as well — I’ve heard their brewery tour in San Francisco is also an experience. Apparently they give you a better insider’s look than any other brewery, not too mention unlimited pitchers at the tour’s completion. Has anyone else heard the same?
Dave Straub
Anchor Steam is readily available (though at a price) at a couple of distributors in here in Lancaster, PA. A great beer and one of the first “real” ones I ever tasted, but I strongly prefer Liberty.
Tim F.
I will confess that I have not tried the Ommegang yet, although it says a lot that you’re willing to lay it next to Chimay. That’s like saying, ‘I have this car and I want to know how it compares with a new 650i.’ Stiff competition.
In response to other questions, I have limited experience with Pyramid from college but little to no exposure here in Pittsburgh. I liked what I remember of it. Also, Sierra Nevada will get its day. IMO their Pale Ale basically defines the style, even if I prefer a bit more protein in my beer.
Payne
Two fine line of ales and beer from Victory Brewing and Flying Fish are two must experiences. Victory has a Hop Devil that rivals Anchor’s Pale Ale and Xmas brew and Flying Fish has one of the best Beligums brew in American.
I grow up loving Anchor and still drink it often but you can not go wrong with Hop Devil by Victory Brewing.
chopper
Sadly, what pride American brewing had was wiped out by thirteen years of prohibition, when quality took a distant backseat to the expediencies of producing, smuggling, distributing and vending something that could earn you a jail sentence at any step of the way. By the time beer production started up again Americans had practically forgotten what good beer tastes like.
not just that; prohibition effectively destroyed all the small breweries, leaving only a few once it was repealed. only the larger breweries survived because they could turn and revamp production to legal things like malt for the food industry. when prohibition was repealed, they were the only dudes left with anything remotely resembling brewery equipment. and so we were left with budweiser and miller and their ilk.
Jim Allen
Just sent in my subscription order for the new Beer Advocate magazine this weekend. Looking forward to the inaugurla issue in September.
I’m enough of a Luddite to still like reading something I can hold onto, and there are certain, um, reading rooms where the computer doesn’t reach.
Andrew
Anchor Steam is readily available in grocery stores all over the country!