On the Road is a weekday feature spotlighting reader photo submissions.
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Good Morning All,
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Have a wonderful day, and enjoy the pictures!
More from JR in WV! Great stuff to start out the week!
Today, pictures from valued commenter J R in WV.
A second big stop on our 2008 trip to New Mexico and Arizona and the Navajo Nation. Chaco Canyon National Historic Park is a huge archaeological site with multiple large pueblo-style structures and many smaller sites. Many of the ancient ruins were reburied after being excavated to preserve them from erosion damage.
The ruins still exposed to view are maintained and supported by National Park staff. The largest ruin is called Pueblo Bonito – it is well preserved and mostly excavated. Interestingly, this 1200 room city was built below a giant piece of the canyon wall which was separated and moving away from the canyon wall. It fell in the 1940s and crushed a portion of the city.
We know they were aware of this, while excavating they found symbolic braces intended to ask the wall from falling upon their city – they weren’t sturdy, not intended to hold back the giant boulder, yet while symbolic in nature, they held that boulder away from their city for nearly a thousand years after they abandoned it.
Many of the rooms were in eternal darkness, the deepest rooms were used for burials of powerful individuals. The richest burial contained over 50,000 pieces of individually worked turquoise. Because there were few hearths for cooking, it is thought that the year-round population of these pueblos cities was as low as 80 or 90 people, while at times hundreds or thousands of people gathered for… some purpose, we don’t know why, and will never know why. Ultimate Frisbee?
On the cliff tops and mesas there are cleared straight paths spreading out across the bleak countryside. Perhaps to move logs for the building projects… again, we can’t be sure. Huge labors with no tools but stones. And the masonry work is stunning, straight walls, square corners, level thresholds, round Kiva foundations.
The first ruin, reburied to preserve it
Taken on 2008-05-27
This is the first major ruin you come to after the visitor center. I love this picture because it shows the size of the undertaking and puts it in place in the environment. The canyon is wide and open feeling, but when close to the wall, you understand how small you are in this landscape.
Nikon D70s, 105mm F8.0 1/2500 sec
Pueblo Bonito with Fallen Canyon Wall
Taken on 2008-05-27
This shows the whole Pueblo Bonito ruin in context with the fallen canyon wall.
Nikon D70s, 27mm F3.5 1/4000 sec.
Pueblo Bonito internal structures
Taken on 2008-05-27
This shows how much internal work there was in this giant building, over 1200 rooms, multiple stories, like a maze, and very little light even around the edges of the structure.
Nikon D70s 27mm f3.5 1/3200 sec.
One of the large Kivas in Pueblo Bonito
This is the foundation and sub floor of one of the larger Kivas. Modern Native cultures in this ares still use Kivas, especially the Pueblo tribes. They do not talk about what happens in them.
At one time the Hopi people were outgoing about their historic beliefs, and then one day they all stopped talking to anyone about anything like that.
Of course, what Kivas mean today and what they meant 1200 years ago are almost certainly different.
Nikon D70s 27mm F3.5 1/3200 sec
Doorways deep into the building
Taken on 2008-05-27
There are four doorways aligned here. I’m amazed by the straight corners and craft-man-ship. When this was intact, of course, all these rooms would have been dark. Very dark. Now the blinding spring sun shines into these rooms, as it had not for hundreds of years.
Nikon D70s 28mm f3.5 1/1600 sec
Preservation work at the South Gap into the canyon
Taken on 2008-05-27
This is another Pueblo with stone being mortared onto the tops of the walls. This will keep water out of the wall and slow the effects of deep time upon the ancient buildings.
This National Park employee is almost certainly a member of a nearby Pueblo tribe as their belief structure doesn’t prohibit their presence in places where death in known to have occurred. Very few Navajo would care to be in these places.
Nikon D70s 27mm F11 /400 sec.
Stairway to Heaven
Or just to the top of the canyon wall. We don’t know if the procession went up out of the sacred Canyon, or came down into it, both, or none. But a huge amount of work went into building this stairway.
The bottom appears to have been lost to erosion, which happens even in this desert, but you can see the steps clearly in the top of this niche in the canyon walls.
This image was cropped to feature the stairway better.
Nikon D70s 69mm F9.0 1/320 sec.
Thank you so much J R in WV, do send us more when you can.
Travel safely everybody, and do share some stories in the comments, even if you’re joining the conversation late. Many folks confide that they go back and read old threads, one reason these are available on the Quick Links menu.
One again, to submit pictures: Use the Form or Send an Email
Le Comte de Monte Cristo, fka Edmund Dantes
Nice shots – love the Hopi stuff!
Sort of OT – Alain, are you getting my Vietnam submissions, or should I use email?
ThresherK
The scale of that first pic made me think there was an action figure in foreground, not a grown human.
Very nice shots of giving the viewer a feel for the massive scale.
Quinerly
? Chaco is on my list next month. May be meeting commenter dexwood and his lovely bride for my day trip there.
Litlebritdifrnt
I was already in bed when the news about Patsy Marie broke last night so I would like to add my condolences for the Cracker family. It must be so hard this morning to wake up without her and I am sure Daisy is bereft. Hugs to the Cracker family.
J R in WV
@Quinerly:
There are great Anthropological books at the Park HQ, that’s where I got my knowledge, reading those books after the visit, then following news from time to time. Ideas change over time with new perspectives and data.
It is a long bumpy road into Chaco, so leave very early, take everything you might need, there is nothing available there but water. I want to take an RV in to stay for a while, some day. Probably just a fantasy.
Getting to the top of the canyon walls would also be good, looking down at the multiple never-inhabited cities. They used to assume that, somehow, hundreds of people lived in those structures, but little light, no cooking hearths, now they think they were ceremonial, like the Vatican today maybe. But way fewer people than in Italy.
Thought is that this civilization was killed by severe drought, even though they were already a desert culture.
I’m glad people get to see these pictures. I never expected anyone but a few friends would, now anyone can. Thanks Alain for building this feature for B J !!
There are Grand Canyon pics somewhere, I’ll try to dig them out too.
Sab
These photos and your commentary are wonderful. Thanks.
Albatrossity
Great photos and commentary, JR. Chaco is a special place, not just for the history and the stories and the petroglyphs, but also for photography. You’ve captured it well!
Quinerly
@J R in WV: I tend to over research these trips. Been reading about Chaco for a couple of years. It will be this trip or next year. February weather can be problematic. Hope I can coordinate with commenter dexwood. He’s been in NM 30 plus years…his beautiful bride works for the museum system, is a balloonist, and is many generations in the area. Hope I’m not giving up too much info about them…believe everything I just wrote has been said here by him. I was short on time last year in Albuquerque and hope to see more of them next month. Would be a special treat if the 3 of us can get together for Chaco. Thanks for the pics and great narrative.
RedDirtGirl
NYC jjackals! wanna join me at the Manhattan Country School MLK Jr. March from 10-2? Starts at the Eleanor Roosevelt statue at 72nd st and Riverside Drive? I’m the one with the sign that says:
JUSTICE…?
OR JUST US?
laura
@RedDirtGirl: I’ll join you in spirit, by walking the Sacramento March from William Land Park to the Capital. Hopefully, others with fill in the middle, where “real America” lives.
Time to come off the sidelines and walk my talk.
J R in WV
@RedDirtGirl:
Love love your sign… but it won’t work for here, because here Governor Jim Justice turned from a DINO into another Republican Billionaire. So it would be confusing.
To all, thanks for expressing your pleasure from the photo shoot.. Since people like it, I will send more. I am glowing from your warmth. It is a fine super power!
Alain the site fixer
@Le Comte de Monte Cristo, fka Edmund Dantes: I’m getting them but the form has issues when submitting them for some reason. I’ll be running them this week
J R in WV
@Alain the site fixer:
@Le Comte de Monte Cristo, fka Edmund Dantes:
It’s all because this data is being sent from Vietnam !!! The very electrons rebel against running data from that former hellhole. There might be Jane Fonda cooties in there!!!
;-) Can’t wait to see your pictures, Dantes/Cristo whichever it is today.!!
Waratah
Thank you J R, My thoughts are the same as Albatrossitty except to add I had a wonderful teacher for ancient history in high school that still fuels my interest in the people and places like this.
barb 2
Chaco Canyon — perhaps one of my most favorite places to visit. There is a series of novels about the Chaco civilization by a husband and wife writing team. Kathleen O’Neal Gear and W. Michael Gear have a whole series of historical novels. Kathleen is the academic of the writing team — Anthropology — and their books include extensive bibliographies. People of Silence and Bone Walker are two of their books which focus on the Anasazi Culture of the region.
The Chaco Meridian by Stephen Lekson — is an overview of the region, with a theory about how the Chaco culture came to be located in the Chaco Canyon and where they went after the rains stopped. Due South into what is now Mexico — Lekson theorizes because of the cultural artifacts that both locations have in common.
There are outlier great houses outside of Chaco Canyon — it helps to have 4-wheel drive to get there and back. Camping is great in Chaco and there are also places for small travel trailers. The road in and out of Chaco is rough. Our first visits we took the northern route — based on advice from park officials. Last time we took the southern approach — both work. The southern road was just as rough.
We hope to get back there when my health improves. There are many preserved Chaco culture ruins throughout the four corners region. Some popular and over visited and others not so famous.