On the Road is a weekday feature spotlighting reader photo submissions.
From the exotic to the familiar, whether you’re traveling or in your own backyard, we would love to see the world through your eyes.
PAM Dirac
When we last left our intrepid travelers they were getting on the bus in Amarante, Portugal to head to the Douro Valley.
The Douro Valley is an amazing place. The landscape is very hilly, verging on mountainous, which always makes for intersting views. Added to this is buildings fitted onto ridges and even places where it doesn’t seem reasonable to put a building. Even more so, it seems every square foot that could support a grape vine is in fact planted with a grape vine. Here’s a view with an emphasis on the mountain.
Here’s another view where you can see reasonable sized patches of vineyards. You can also see that everything is terraced and the terraces follow the contours of the land, so you have very few straight lines and parallel rows. Another example of vineyards that look very different from home.
We visited Quinta de Pacheca in the Douro Valley. They have some flat land so they have some vineyards that more resemble the traditional vineyards with straight rows, as shown in this photo. They are also producers of their own wine and, of course, port. Most of the grape grape growers in the area just sell their grapes to one of the big port producers and never worry about actually making wine. We had a very nice tour and then a fine meal with their table wine and port. I don’t particularly like the fortified, port-like wines that are widely available in our area and I was interested to see if I would like the real thing. Well, yes. As my wife said, “Great, another expensive taste I’ve discovered.”
The rain we had been just missing caught up to us in the next stop, La Coruña, Spain. We took a walking tour of the city, and like most European cities, some of the most interesting views are of the old churches. Drizzled most of tour, so we didn’t really get wet. When the tour ended we decided not go back to the big square and get some local wine and it turned out to be a good decision as it started raining much more heavily.
The next stop was Bilbao, Spain. They have a Guggenheim museum which is famous for its architecture. I thought the best thing was the huge dog.
My wife thought the coolest thing at the Guggenheim was the big spider.
The next stop was Bordeaux, France. Here is Château Pichon Baron as seen from our balcony as we sailed up the river to the city.
Another sight sailing up the river; Église Saint-Seurin in Lamarque
Here is our ship docked in Bordeaux. It was the most accessible city we visited. When you stepped off the gangway you were about 50 feet from the park along the river. A bit further on (where you see the building tops next to the river) is a group of shops and restaurants. This picture was taken from the observation deck of La Cité du Vin, which is a “unique cultural facility where wine comes to life through an immersive, sensorial approach”. It was almost heaven for a wine nerd like me, but it was a huge amount to take in. One fun fact: the word symposium comes from ancient Greek drinking party practice. Hmmm, I think all the symposia I participated in made me get my own wine and drink it afterwards.
Here is Bordeaux at night from our balcony. Usually the ship left port about 6pm so we wouldn’t see the city at night. We stayed two days in Bordeaux so we did see it in the night, but we just looked at it and didn’t go out carousing. Such party animals.
That essentially the end of the trip. From Bordeaux we sailed up the coast into the English Channel and on to Southampton. We did encounter some fog and, not at all surprisingly, the fog horn for a ship this big is LOUD. At Southampton we just got on a bus to go to Heathrow and fly home. Another unsurprising lesson relearned on this trip; Heathrow is maddeningly awful.
All in all a wonderful trip with a chance to get a glimpse of places we haven’t been. Highest priority for a return trip would probably be the Douro Valley followed closely by Bordeaux and Lisbon.
eclare
Love the dog! The spider, not so much. Thank you for sharing your trip!
Kristine
What a lovely journey. Thanks for the photos.
Baud
Itsy Bitsy Spider
Paul in St. Augustine
Were (are) you in the wine business?
Gary K
Slightly off-topic, but these “On The Road” posts are largely invisible to casual visitors to BJ. You have to be “in the know” to realize that clicking on the title of the post will reveal the full posting, with all its glorious photographs. There is no “show full post on front page” button at the bottom.
raven
@Gary K: Well you figured it out so. . .
PAM Dirac
@Paul in St. Augustine: My retirement hobby is a ~180 vine vineyard (photos). My wife and I enjoy wine and enjoy visiting wineries in the area. I have absolutely no desire to take on the headaches of trying to any of it commercially.
Gary K
@raven: But I’ve visited the site hundreds or thousands of times. There really is no indication to someone who first visits the site that there will be any more to these posts.
MelissaM
@PAM Dirac: Your next OTR submission needs to be you and the missus stomping your grapes ala Lucy.
Seriously, I’d love more about how you’re doing that. Do you hire out for picking and such? etc. Really curious to know how a “for myself” i.e. small scale vintner does his thing.
PAM Dirac
@MelissaM: You can get a little idea by clicking on my name. I have a journal for the 2019 growing season. I’m thinking of making a garden post showing a single vine over the course of the season. I do all the work myself. I would say 180 vines is pretty manageable for one person. The is a bunch of work in the spring with pruning and then harvest is is pretty hectic; not so much the harvest itself, but managing the crushing, soaking , and pressing, some of which is pretty time dependent. As far as the winemaking goes it is mostly washing and waiting. There is a little chemistry involved, making up solutions, doing titrations, playing with pH meters but as a PhD chemist, I love to mess with those things. I even got a nice white lab coat!
ETA: I don’t stomp the grapes to crush them. I bought a crusher/destemmer that works pretty well for the ~100 lb batches I do. Dump the grape bunches in the hooper and turn the crank. Oh and 180 vines usually gives me ~450 lbs of grapes which yields ~ 125 bottles of wine.
J R in WV
Loved the On the Road photos, have been to Bilbao, enjoyed the city a lot.
But the season of your vineyard photos was really interesting and educational. Wife and I have developed a terrible sparkling wine habit while self-quarantining to avoid the Trumpian-Covid plague. Loved the grape vines from winter through spring, summer and fall harvest, as well as the demo of processing the grapes into wine. Thanks for sharing!
PAM Dirac
@J R in WV: Glad you found it interesting. I forget where in WV you are, but if it is near Maryland, you should come by some day and try the wines.
Miss Bianca
@PAM Dirac: And your product is quite awesome, if I remember correctly. Thanks for the photos, looks like it was a great trip!
PAM Dirac
@Miss Bianca: You are welcome back any time. I think the ’21s re better than the wine you tasted.