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My wife and I had the good fortune recently to spend a few weeks in Europe. We stopped in Paris for a day, followed by Malta and then Istanbul, each for about a week. After Istanbul, I continued on alone to Poland for a business trip. I arrived at John Paul II International Airport near Krakow Sunday evening and was able to visit the Krakow city center and two Christmas markets before the work week began. It was my first time in Krakow itself and unfortunately I was only able to see it at night before taking the train early in the morning to my final destination. Since it is the season, I thought I would share these photos of my visit.
My hotel was near the train station. I walked using a pedestrian underpass beneath a busy intersection to traverse to the old town “Stare Miasto” and the central plaza Rynek Główny. Entering the plaza near Saint Mary’s Basilica, I was greeted by this impressive Christmas tree. Some of the light displays on the tree mimicked falling snow – it was a really neat effect that a video captures better. The decorations on the street lamps had the same lighting artifice.
The plaza itself dates from the 13th century and is surrounded by beautiful palaces and town houses as well as the Basilica. Many of the town houses are now hotels with restaurants opening out on the plaza.
The middle of the plaza has a large market hall building. This was largely closed by the time I arrived. However, the square was still very crowded with pedestrian traffic enjoying the picturesque plaza overall as well as going to and from the Christmas market itself. The Christmas Market was on the other side of the market hall.
On the same side of the plaza as the Basilica is this 11th century Church of St. Wojciech. In front of the church were these lighted arches where people were posing for holiday pictures.
This restored 14th century clock tower on the other side of the market building marked the beginning of the Christmas Market area as I made my circuit of the plaza.
There was a tasteful, almost life-size Nativity scene near the clock tower at this entrance to the market.
The market itself was full of stalls specializing in traditional holiday food and drink (sausage and hot mulled wine were popular items) as well as crafts and other gift items. There was a stall which sold chocolate fashioned into realistic forms of life-size tools like wrenches and chains – very interesting (and a whole lot of chocolate to eat!). Another stall sold frosted glass candle holders that I really liked. The candle holders showed scenes of the Krakow plaza and city walls that were done really well. Alas, this stall was closed when I returned after checking out the rest of the market. So, I left the market empty-handed.
There were horse drawn carriages available to ride in around the old town. Here you can also see the large Christmas tree pictured earlier and Saint Mary’s Basilica itself behind the row of carriages waiting for passengers.
There were many restaurants full of diners with seating on the plaza. Because of the cold, they were enclosed using temporary plastic walls with heating elements inside. They were also decorated with festive Christmas lights. I love the European style of restaurants having outdoor seating, especially in the plaza areas of the old towns.
After visiting the market, I walked from the front of the Basilica to the nearby city gate through the old town walls. I hadn’t researched too much ahead of time, but I found this area to be full of night clubs and also (it became apparent) some more risque establishments. I was propositioned several times on my way to see the gate and walls.
After quickly exiting through the city gate to escape to the safety of the park outside, I continued back to the hotel. The train station contains shopping and dining areas and additionally hosted a much smaller Christmas market nearby. This smaller market had a seasonal skating rink installed! The rink itself had an interesting layout – there was a larger open area for skating as one would expect in an ice rink, but there was also a few (one way) paths that you could take outside of the central rink area.
The traditional Christmas markets were a great (albeit brief) experience. I hope to return some day when I can see the city also in the daylight (and maybe with warmer temperatures).
Scuffletuffle
Beautiful!
p.a.
Wow! Where are all the “Sponsored by Big Black Hole Bank” signs?//s
Ramalama
Gorgeous. Those Nativity scene figures reminded me of chess pieces at first glance.
eclare
That looks so joyful!
Betty
So nice to see this lovely area. Having grown up in the 50s and 60s, my impression of Poland is the dreary gray of Communism. There was an historic Poland before that unfortunate era.
Winter Wren
@Betty: I think Krakow was also relatively unscathed during the war, so it was able to retain much of its historical charm as the former capital of medieval Poland.
Elizabelle
Wonderful photos. Love Christmas markets; think Europe does walkable cities with train stations exceptionally well (realize it’s their pre-auto development pattern); really appreciate the small craftsperson aspect of the markets — they are not as commercialized and mass produced as everything in the US. Plus: hot mulled wine! Glühwein — glow wine — in German.
Had never seen Krakow, and glad to hear its old town center survived (or perhaps was restored well after WW2?) Poland is on the two-year bucket list.
J.
Looks very festive!
Winter Wren
@Elizabelle: Your comment about the war prompted me to fact-check my belief about what happened on the internet and I came across this interesting article for some additional background: https://culture.pl/en/article/how-krakow-made-it-unscathed-through-wwii
HeleninEire
My father’s family is from Krakow. Perhaps one day I will make it over there.
Gin & Tonic
Krakow is a beautiful city. I was last there in June, as my transit point for my trip to their eastern neighbor. My mother went to university there, before the war.
Elizabelle
@Winter Wren: Fascinating article; has some marvelous links to other articles, too. Thank you. Had not realized Krakow’s fate was so different from Warsaw’s, and other cities.
Have not yet had the pleasure of visiting Poland. Really look forward to it.
MCat
Thank you! I had no idea Krakow was so beautiful.
Walker
My wife was born in Krakow and we have been back several times. It has essentially become the new Prague. It was interesting the first time when we went when almost no one took credit cards, and you had to pay for everything with cash. And then four years later, it was like any city in western Europe.
Ph64n
I’m in Valletta right now. Heading out for Cisk and pizza with my three sons in a minute. The streets are all lit up, nativity scenes everywhere, along with artisan stalls. No one wants cash.
Biggest drawback? WWII american christmas songs playing everywhere. Next week: Ljubljana old town with the cousins!
way2blue
@Ramalama: Agreed. The Chessmen from the Isle of Lewis in particular.
way2blue
I love the Kriskindlmarkt I visited in Austria. Haven’t yet been to Poland—but old town Krakow at night looks amazing. Thanks for sharing.
Winter Wren
@Ph64n: We spent a day and a half in Valletta while in Malta, but mostly stayed in Gozo. Both were great, maybe future post submissions… It was interesting to see all of the places in holiday decorations, but especially (surprisingly to me) Istanbul.
WaterGirl
Thanks so much or sharing this! Even though pictures, it seems like a magical place.
Skippy-san
Krakow is a wonderful city.
Ph64n
@Winter Wren: My middle son lives on Gozo, and tends bar at one of the cafes in Victoria. We are going there tomorrow
Winter Wren
@Ph64n: We traveled there with my middle son and his wife – they loved the diving while my wife and I just enjoyed the more bucolic feel of Gozo and visiting the villages and the beautiful coastline as well as the citadel in Victoria. Awesome experience I would think for your son – enjoy your visit!
Ph64n
@Winter Wren: Thanks. There are private apartments in the Cittadella, and we’re going to spend three nights there.
Steve in the ATL
Just back from visiting Christmas markets in Germany. Always fun, even though we got no snow this time.