Athenaze and Ariobarzanes
Athens is a city in which we have both spent a considerable amount of time. For us, it feels like a second home rather than a tourist destination. Our most recent visit came at the end of our hiking trip to Andros (detailed in our two earlier On The Road posts). We visited all of our favorite haunts, both ancient and modern. The effects of the pandemic were obvious: everyone was (mostly) masked in public settings, both indoor and outdoor, and although Greece had opened itself up to tourism, there were very few visitors at most of the main monuments relative to what we’ve seen in past years even in low season. Restaurants were open only for outdoor dining, which wasn’t really a problem since most restaurants have lots of outdoor seating already.
This is the so-called “street of tombs” in the Kerameikos, one of Athens’ least-visited but most atmospheric archaeological sites. In antiquity, the Kerameikos lay just outside the city’s main western gates, and was known for the tombs that lined the roads leading out of the city. The tombs on display today are mostly reconstructed—the original sculptures are housed in either the Kerameikos Museum or the National Archaeological Museum. The monument in the center of the shot is a cenotaph commemorating the Athenian cavalryman Dexileos, who was killed in battle in 394 BC.