On the Road is a weekday feature spotlighting reader photo submissions.
From the exotic to the familiar, whether you’re traveling or in your own backyard, we would love to see the world through your eyes.
Auntie Anne
Theravada Buddhism is the largest religion in Laos, which is practiced by 66% of the population. Lao Buddhism is a unique version of Theravada Buddhism and is at the basis of ethnic Lao culture. Buddhism in Laos is often closely tied to animist beliefs and belief in ancestral spirits, particularly in rural areas.
Buddhism has survived because it remains central to the cultural identity of Laos, and Buddhism is inextricably interwoven with Lao culture. Buddhists also assist in adult literacy programs after the formation of the Lao People’s Democratic Republic. They teach the Lao language and other subjects in places where schools are not available or where teachers are not available. They play a prominent role in education, especially early education.They continue their role as traditional healers in a country where doctors are scarce. However, they are prohibited from issuing cures of a spiritualist nature. They can dispense traditional herbal cures and Western medicines. In this sense, the Buddhist Sangha have had to re-invent themselves by emphasizing their utilitarian roles in Lao society. The Sangha has become seen as a preserver of national culture, especially in the maintenance of wats and monasteries.
At 4 p.m. every day, one of the wats in Luang Prabang has a monk drumming to mark the time. {WaterGirl – here is where I want to insert the video at: https://youtube.com/shorts/9OaROH5rjOI?si=Ezgzjpv1sbOSYwkV }
A Baci Ceremony is a specific ceremony in Laos which has been practiced for hundreds of years. The ceremony involves the tying of white cotton strings around person’s wrists and the prayer saying or well wishing for the person that the ceremony is intended for. We had a Baci Ceremony to welcome us to Laos and wish us a happy stay.
Before a ceremony takes place, elderly women in the community gather to prepare a Pha Khuan, handmade marigold pyramid, which is a key centerpiece at every Baci.
The Pha Khuan is placed on a white cloth at the center of the room and everyone gathers round it. The host or the persons that the Baci is intended for sit closest to the Pha Khuan facing the Mor Phon (wisher or master of ceremony usually a respected and knowledgeable person in the community), and other participants sit behind.
After the Mor Phon has finished his chanting, he ties the first white blessing strings around the wrists of the main person being honored. Then everyone else joins in to tie strings around the wrists of the main celebrants and other family members as well as among the guests themselves, while murmuring good wishes for receivers of the strings.
Sai Bat (Morning Alms) is a longstanding tradition in Laos Buddhist culture. In observing it, the devoted offer food to monks throughout the Luang Prabang every morning. This is sustenance for the monks, so great care is taken in preparation (and visitors wishing to take part should follow guidelines to ensure that they make appropriate offerings).
Each morning, starting at around 05:30, saffron-robed monks and novices emerge onto the streets with their alms bowls (‘bat’). Awaiting them are Lao people who have already taken the time to prepare sticky rice and other foods; they will place a portion in the bowl of each monk who passes by. The ceremony is undertaken in complete silence.
The monks approaching our group.
After the monks had received our alms.
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Baud
I should ask for alms.
Cool trip.
JeanneT
Some years back I read a series of mysteries set in Laos, written by Colin Cotterill. Set in the years just after the Communists took power, the characters were always operating in a (to me) confusing and competing mix of politics, Buddhism, animist religion, the old colonial French influences, science and food. I’ve always wondered whether Laos permitted those books to be read in country, and how the Lao people would have received them….
WaterGirl
Auntie Anne, since this is your last set from your big trip, I want to thank you for the series now – in case I space out on Friday!
MCat
Thank you so much for telling us about your trip. I have learned so much from you. And I loved the photos.
MelissaM
This has def been an interesting trip! Thanks
Auntie Anne
@JeanneT: I’ve read them too – as did my travel buddy. In fact, the Dr. Siri mysteries were a big part of us wanting to go to Laos.
We did ask Ken, our local guide, about them. He had read at least one of them, and while he wouldn’t comment on the political aspects, he did say that that he enjoyed the book (s). Ken was interesting – he was educated by the monks, and in fact, nearly decided to stay a monk for life. He and his family live in a Luang Prabang village behind the silk weaving village we visited.
KrackenJack
That’s a fascinating trip. Thank you for sharing everything.
Way back when, I was a member of the Diamond Sangha in Honolulu and read voraciously on Buddhism. I learned the distinction between Theravada (Way of the Elders) and Mahayana (Greater Vehicle). Of course, people being people, the Mahayana folks referred to Theravada as “Hinyana” or the Lesser Vehicle. It’s an interesting rabbit hole.