On the Road is a weekday feature spotlighting reader photo submissions.
From the exotic to the familiar, whether you’re traveling or in your own backyard, we would love to see the world through your eyes.
Kabecoo
For many years we lived near Olympic National Park in western Washington. I am fortunate to have had numerous opportunities to explore its trails over almost 40 years, and this three-part series describes one of my favorite areas with a little history thrown in.
The Skyline trail is a somewhat popular backpacking route in the southwest corner of the park. It begins along the north fork of the Quinault River, climbs to a ridgeline on the northern side of the river, and follows various flanks to the headwaters of the north fork, where a shorter trail along the river can be taken back to the trailhead.
In 1986 I backpacked for the first time. Somehow the Skyline Trail had come to my attention and I thought it sounded fun. I bought garage sale equipment and headed off for a week in the woods with a friend. I was wildly unprepared. There were wild animals around and we were otherwise by ourselves. Who knew?
I’ve now hiked the route five times, as recently as August 2023. A comfortable five day loop, I did it in seven to make it even comfortabler. What was once a multi-day exercise in route-finding is now much easier due to a fairly consistent path, indicative of its popularity. Even so, I only saw nine other hikers on the Skyline, so the solitude of the route in 1986 isn’t entirely gone.
Mt. Zindorf dominated the view for much of the trail, so I started with this photo, even though it wasn’t until the third day of walking that Zindorf appeared. But I liked the photo even if the journey started earlier, and at a lower elevation….
The first day is spent climbing through typical Pacific Northwest woods: everything from maidenhair ferns to towering firs and cedars. Downed trees often remain undisturbed for a few years and each hiker must find a way around or over them. Or under, in rare cases. I could easily walk under this fallen tree without bending over!
One reward for the tired hiker, especially one who wants a short break from climbing, is the ripe huckleberry. I was fortunate to find both blue and black varieties along much of the trail and ate them several times each day.
The berries also draw the attention of black bears. Purple bear scat is a sure sign that ripe berries are near. If the scat is still warm, it’s a sign of something else.
There is not much trail maintenance along these more remote routes. This “bridge” crossed a deep channel through a boggy area. It’s possible that a careless hiker could step on the wrong part of a board, have the other end fly up and whack them, and do a faceplant in the grasses on the other side. I mean, it’s possible. So I’ve heard.
Most hikers reach Kimta basin on day 2, at the end of a waterless five mile ridge-top trail. When we entered the basin in 1986 we took our last water, made Tang, and carefully poured it over cups of snow.
The picture is from that hike. My hiking partner Mr. B. heads out across the basin, winding his way past two cairns with snow poles. The cairns guided us much of the time.
Robert Wood, a local author, wrote about Kimta basin: “This is a country of wide horizons, of far-flung vistas to distant peaks, of quiet solitude, where one can hear the sounds of nature — the piercing whistles of marmots; the deep purring of the creeks below; the wind sighing in the subalpine firs on the ridges, and the bugling of elk in cul-de-sacs unvisited by man.” Who could resist?
In 2012 I unknowingly took the same picture but without Mr. B as he was busy lollygagging elsewhere. The cairns remained, pole-less, but hikers had worn a path. That path is now evident for much of the route, a welcome change particularly when hiking solo.
In 2008 the trail through Kimta basin was still partially covered by snow in early September. Of course, snow is made for sliding. Bears seem to enjoy this as well. From a distance of a few hundred yards, I watched an older bear slide down a small snowfield that covered the trail, move off the snow just below the trail, slowly climb back to the top, and slide down again. As I got closer I began speaking to him, addressing him as Mr. Bear, as cross-species respect is always important.
He would watch me, I would advance, then he would slide down again. I waited until he was back at the top to begin crossing the snowfield, as otherwise he would be too close.
(These two bear photos are scans from hard copies. Back in the film years….)
But when I started to pick my way across the snowfield, he descended along its far side while I crossed below him. We got closer with each step. This got my heart moving even though he exhibited no threatening behavior, and it was far better than having him slide into me. A fortuitously placed huckleberry bush distracted him – have I mentioned how tasty those treats are? – so I scurried down the trail while he snacked and reclaimed the playground. No one would ever describe me as a rapid scurrier but circumstances seemed to call for it.
Over the years I’ve had three very close black bear encounters along this trail. Generally they are skittish creatures wanting nothing more than being allowed to graze all day in peace, take a few naps, maybe a swim. Seeing hikers is unfamiliar so they react by moving away, usually quite swiftly. Older bears tend to not run and I sympathize. When I have to pass near them, I try to be sure they know that I’m there by talking to them. When older bears see me before I see them, they will huff a few times to let me know I should consider moving along. It’s good advice.
The route in 2023 proved to be largely water-free, due mostly to low winter snowpack and a warm spring. I began searching for a campsite as soon as I entered Kimta basin, but I needed water. Previously reliable drainages were dry; snow was nowhere. About an hour before sunset, the trail crossed over briefly into the Queets River drainage to the west, and on the north side of a small ridge I saw the remains of what was once a huge snowfield. It was a rocky descent, there were footprints of elk and bear all around, and a fairly sketchy downhill next to the only flat place large enough for my tiny tent. It was perfect.
Mount Olympus was just north. It has five peaks, although I can rarely tell which ones they are. By crossing into the Queets basin I had my first unobstructed view, and I watched it change color with the…..
mrmoshpotato
A multi-century On The Road. Great pictures. Hope that bear had a blast sledding. Thanks for sharing.
Wag
Very nice. Solitude is so rare these days. It is increasingly important to savor it whenever possible.
Rusty
Thank you for the pictures and descriptions, they are wonderful. I was at Olympic Park in 1990, I did a lot of hiking but only one night on a trail, the rest was camping at the campgrounds.
KSinMA
Beautiful!
Yarrow
Lucky you! Love that area. Thanks for the pictures and write up. The bears there are so fun to watch.
Dagaetch
wonderful photos and stories. Thanks for sharing!
Mike in Oly
Beautiful photos. Thanks for sharing the trip with us.
CCL
Great story telling! Great photos!
Albatrossity
Very nice! Educational and beautiful.
TriassicSands
Thanks for these photos.
Olympic National Park is among the most beautiful in the country. Unlike most parks that offer a narrower range of scenery, ONP has wonderful forests, beautiful mountains, and a beach and coastal section that is every bit the equal of the other two. One can hike the coast or see it from a sea kayak, where encountering migrating gray whales can be an amazing bonus. My first visit to the park in 1979 began a long-term love affair that eventually helped bring me to the area to live out my days.
As with so many of our parks, crowds now make visiting much more difficult.
mvr
Thank you for these photos. I particularly like the bear. But also the views from higher up.
In 1976 I hitch-hiked out west for my first backpacking trip in new boots. First stop was Glacier Park and the second was Olympic Park where I hiked the Western bit along the Ocean. So I sympathize with your “wildly unprepared” comment. The boots did semi-permanent damage to my feet.
I’ve since taken day hikes in the interior of the park but never overnight backpacked it. Because of all the moisture the forest there is pretty unique and seems darker and more mysterious that forests in the Rockies.
Thanks for sharing these!
pieceofpeace
Love the feeling of solitude, taking in the majesty of this lovely place.
cope
Mountains, trees, solitude, what more could you hope for? Oh yeah, a glissading bear…now it’s perfect.
Thank you for the pictures and the story
StringOnAStick
Such a lovely set of photos and stories, thank you! Now that we live in the PNW, this park is on our list to visit soon.
Bumper
Thank you for this :)
Yutsano
Olympic National Park used to be a day drive away when I was in high school. It’s such a lovely and diverse area including the only temperate rain forest. It’s so wonderful to see images from there again! Thank you.