On the Road is a weekday feature spotlighting reader photo submissions.
From the exotic to the familiar, whether you’re traveling or in your own backyard, we would love to see the world through your eyes.
arrieve
I’ve never been to Ukraine, but I have been lucky enough to visit Vernadsky Station, their research base in Antarctica. I know I submitted Antarctica pictures to On the Road back in 2018, but don’t believe these were included. If they are a repeat, I hope no one will mind.
This was originally another British base (F, at first, and then Faraday after the scientist.) Before the environmental regulations for Antarctica were strengthened, research stations that could no longer be supported were simply abandoned. (We actually visited two of these; the one on Detaille Island had to be evacuated with almost no notice when the relief ship was unable to make it through the ice. There are still magazines and shelves of canned goods and a pair of longjohns hung up to dry.)
So when the British wanted to leave Faraday, instead of tearing the base down and removing every piece, as would now be required, they sold it to Ukraine for one British pound.
We saw the outside of a few research stations, but the Ukrainians are the only ones who allow visitors. For the few months a year that it’s possible to visit, they will cheerfully show visitors around, stamp their passports with a custom Antarctica stamp, and sell them homemade vodka what they proudly claim is “The Southernmost Bar in the World.”
I love the cheeky humor of that sign.
Kyiv is thataway.
The chapel.
Unfortunately the weather was bad even for Antarctica the day we were there, so it wasn’t really possible to wander around much outside and the skies were very gray, but I loved that all of the buildings were painted in bright colors.
So much of what you see in Antarctica is missing any sign of a human presence: ice, mountains, water, wildlife. But I did love seeing penguins scampering around on human infrastructure, like these power lines.
The desk of one of the scientists. I thought that I would never manage to get much work done because I’d be too busy watching the penguins all day, but it is dark outside six months of the year.
Not a great picture, unfortunately, but here is the Southernmost Bar in the World. I didn’t sample the vodka, because the bad weather made walking the ramps leading down to the boats the equivalent of doing a slalom without skis.
In addition to the bar, the scientists also run the Southernmost Gift Shop in the World. I have one of these penguins sitting on my bookshelf. Slava Ukraini!
bjacques
Great pix!
Wise of them to maintain an outpost, even now, to keep a close eye on the Mountains of Madness.
OzarkHillbilly
Those guys in the bar look cold. Don’t they heat it?
HeartlandLiberal
Fantastic pictures. What an experience, to visit Antarctica. I watch videos of life there all the time, there are some great ones of the starry skies at the South Pole on Youtube, too, but at 76, with a bad back, I think that is one bucket list item I will not be able to check off. Le Sigh.
P Thomas
@OzarkHillbilly: The people in the bar in the red jackets are with whatever group was visiting at the time. I did a trip in 2015 and the group from my boat were all in identical bright yellow. Note they are still wearing their little “mae west” type life jackets, since they probably arrived at the station in little Zodiac boats It was just so much easier to just leave your jacket on without having to remove everything. The people at the station were usually in sweaters, etc. Verdansky was a very interesting stop!
arrieve
@P Thomas: Yes, that was my group in the red jackets. You have to put on so many layers to go ashore in Antarctica, you’re not going to take any of it off, including the life jackets, until you’re back on the ship.
Glad to hear from another Vernadsky visitor!
HinTN
@HeartlandLiberal: Yes, as much as I would like to go, and this travelogue is very enticing, vicarious appreciation is the only realistic avenue. Thanks for taking us to the Southernmost Bar, arrieve.
BretH
Thanks, love the photos and the adventure!
Fair Economist
Fun trip! My cousin invited me along to a cruise in Antarctica last fall but I just couldn’t manage it.
Grumpy Old Railroader
Thank you!
MelissaM
I love the wonky penguin sculptures! Thanks for the trip.
Yutsano
I’mma let you finish but…
PENGIES!!!
West of the Rockies
Super interesting post! Thank you for sharing! I recall that there is/was a writer in residence program at one such station. That would be a weird and interesting position.
JustRuss
Thanks for sharing this! How many people are stationed there?
SkyBluePink
Really enjoyed this view into another world-
Thanks for posting!
J R in WV
The Southernmost vodka is likely similar to the local clear whiskey made in these here parts. Called Moonshine, when done well by someone with bio and chem degrees, a nearly tasteless burn.
Groucho48
No hand rails on the stairs in the first picture. As someone who regularly has to navigate slippery stairs in winter, that makes me very nervous just looking at them.
Bill in Section 147
I think I read to many expedition stories and adventure novels as a kid because I have always dreamed of going to Antarctica. Weirdly, I have never dreamed of going to Hawaii or Alaska, not that I wouldn’t, just I never really thought about going. My spouse is keen on Alaska so we will probably go – a hard no on Antarctica though (sigh).
Ruckus
arrieve
I applied to be stationed in Antartica while in the Navy but was told that I’d have to sign up for another 6 yrs to be allowed to go. I figured at some point in life I’d travel there to find out how cold really freaking cold is, rather than give 5 extra years, just for the possibility of going for one. Also a visit isn’t as long as living there a year. Also it was cold enough in the North Atlantic in winter. Ship I was on was assigned three times to NATO duty. Once stopped in a port in the very north of Norway, I seem to recall it was Berlevag. In winter.
The pictures are wonderful and from everything I’ve seen and read it is an amazing place. I’d like to go but am not sure I’ll ever be able. Thanks for the pictures of a trip of a lifetime.
Nutmeg again
Nifty! The son of Vladimir Vernadsky (George) was a historian (of Russia) and a wonderful person. He was a professional mentor for my dad, and he and his wife Nina were extra grandparents. It’s wonderful to be reminded of them.