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You are here: Home / Food & Recipes / wine blogging / Spirits in the night

Spirits in the night

by DougJ|  January 28, 20109:38 pm| 52 Comments

This post is in: wine blogging, Good News For Conservatives

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I went to a New York State artisanal spirits tasting this afternoon. I know next to nothing about hard liquor, so I learned a lot about distillation. I still don’t understand the difference between the tails, and the head, and the heart, but at least now I understand why vodka gets distilled to 190 proof while eau de vie gets distilled to 140 (water is added to get them both down to 80-90 proof later).

The stand outs of the tasting, for me, were the apple vodka and apple jack from Harvest Spirits and plum eau de vie from Mazza Chautauqua. These are pretty tough to find, in general, but Harvest Spirits is at all the big NYC liquor stores (Astor, Sherry, etc.). It’s unique stuff — the vodka has a buttery taste up front and a definite but dry-and-light apple taste throughout.

Probably the most exciting part for me, though, was meeting the guy who writes Spirits Review, Chris Carlsson. I’ve been reading the site for months and was sold as soon as I read this review of Bluecoat Gin:

If I could I would replace my blood with this.

It’s a great site — as far as I can tell, it’s the best place to get honest information about hard liquor (I like F. Paul Pacult for bourbon, but not as much for other spirits).

It turns out Chris Carlsson lives right around the corner from me and I may try to bring him by here to answer all your liquor questions at some point.

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Reader Interactions

52Comments

  1. 1.

    Ailuridae

    January 28, 2010 at 9:48 pm

    Sweet! Chris review of Deaths Door (below) tipped me off to it.

    http://www.spiritsreview.com/reviews-vodka-deaths-door.html

    His reviews seem consistently excellent. Informative and minimally pretentious.

    Since this is a liquor thread if someone wants to recommend a sixer of good beer I’m going to one of those liquor stores that has “everything” in about 30 minutes (as compared to my normal corner store that has Edmund Fitzgerald for 10$ including tax) so I’m open to suggestions.

  2. 2.

    Jason Bylinowski

    January 28, 2010 at 9:50 pm

    Applejack? Hell yeah, I break out a bottle of Laird’s every so often.

    My vodka was, is and ever shall be Luksusowa. There simply is no better factory brand. There are of course tons of boutiques that are better, but I’m poor so i only get those a couple of times per year.

  3. 3.

    Jason Bylinowski

    January 28, 2010 at 9:52 pm

    @Ailuridae: Wish i could help, I’m told that my taste in beer is just awful and I’m inclined to agree. I actually haven’t had a beer in a couple of years now, but I used to drink a lot of Honey Brown in college.

  4. 4.

    jenniebee

    January 28, 2010 at 9:55 pm

    @Ailuridae: My faves are Smutty Nose Brown, Old Speckled Hen and (but only if you want to get really, truly, awfully plowed) a Canadian triple bock called La Fin du Monde

    I like a beverage that promises an eschatalogical experience.

  5. 5.

    Waxmaker

    January 28, 2010 at 9:56 pm

    For a sixer, I recommend Anchor Porter.

  6. 6.

    DougJ

    January 28, 2010 at 9:56 pm

    Luksusowa

    That one’s a good deal, I agree.

  7. 7.

    Ailuridae

    January 28, 2010 at 9:56 pm

    @Jason Bylinowski:

    As did we all. Even here in Chicago is was the beer of choice (for a while Genesee or their Chicagoland distributor priced it below Bud and Miller products at bars.

  8. 8.

    DougJ

    January 28, 2010 at 9:58 pm

    @Ailuridae

    I’m an IPA man myself and I recommend the Stone IPA and the various crazy Dogfish Head IPAs. The 90 Minute will knock you on your ass but it’s good.

    I don’t know anything about beer but everyone seems to like these beers too.

  9. 9.

    Ailuridae

    January 28, 2010 at 10:01 pm

    @Waxmaker:

    I haven’t had Anchor Porter in ages. Its very good and fits with the season. Tempting.

  10. 10.

    Tom Hilton

    January 28, 2010 at 10:04 pm

    @Waxmaker: slightly more on-topic, Anchor does an artisanal gin that’s supposed to be excellent. Called Junipero. Not sure if y’all on the Wrong Coast can get it, but out here where normal people live it’s in all the hooch stores.

  11. 11.

    eastriver

    January 28, 2010 at 10:05 pm

    I just figured out that DougJ is a spoonerism: JugDay.

    You drunk.

  12. 12.

    Folderol and Ephemera

    January 28, 2010 at 10:10 pm

    I went to a New York State artisanal spirits tasting this afternoon.

    I can’t tell if this is unforgivably elitist or completely redneck.

  13. 13.

    DougJ

    January 28, 2010 at 10:12 pm

    I can’t tell if this is unforgivably elitist or completely redneck.

    It’s a little of both. Some of the best wine around here comes from counties that are technically part of Appalachia.

  14. 14.

    DougJ

    January 28, 2010 at 10:13 pm

    Called Junipero.

    I talked to the Spirits Review guy about it. He wasn’t a big fan, said Aviation was better in the realm of west coast artisanal gins.

  15. 15.

    ACS

    January 28, 2010 at 10:13 pm

    @jenniebee: Not to be pedantic, but La Fin Du Monde is definitely NOT a bock. It is, however, awesome.

  16. 16.

    Ailuridae

    January 28, 2010 at 10:14 pm

    @DougJ:

    Yeah, I’m really lucky 1) living in Chicago and 2) having the corner store I do as most of the Dogfish Head line (60 min, 90 min and Raison DÉtre) are available at great prices there. And there is no going wrong with any of them.

    Honestly once it hits freezing here I probably drink Edmind Fitzgerald Porter for 80% of my beers until it thaws out.

  17. 17.

    Waxmaker

    January 28, 2010 at 10:14 pm

    @Tom Hilton: Fascinating, thanks; I’d not heard of it before. Liquor stores here are already closed for the night (damn Texas Blue laws), but I’ll try to track some down tomorrow for the weekend.

  18. 18.

    Ailuridae

    January 28, 2010 at 10:16 pm

    @DougJ:

    And many of them are also visible from the interstates. It was a shock when I made the drive from Chicago to home for the first time in a long time in 2006 and noticed all the wineries off of I-90.

  19. 19.

    Tom Hilton

    January 28, 2010 at 10:18 pm

    @DougJ: haven’t tried either one, but that’s another great artisan spirits producer in the Bay Area. They also do Hangar One vodka and St. George whiskey.

    The third biggie is, of course, St. Germain up in Ukiah. Amazing brandy.

  20. 20.

    jenniebee

    January 28, 2010 at 10:18 pm

    @ACS: One of its virtues is that after one has imbibed enough to truly appreciate it, one no longer remembers the details of its creation. Thanks for the correction :)

  21. 21.

    DougJ

    January 28, 2010 at 10:20 pm

    The third biggie is, of course, St. Germain up in Ukiah. Amazing brandy.

    That stuff is great, best-in-category great. It got expensive, though.

  22. 22.

    Waxmaker

    January 28, 2010 at 10:22 pm

    @Folderol and Ephemera: It can’t be too redneck if you don’t have to have it tested for lead before drinking.

  23. 23.

    Nylund

    January 28, 2010 at 10:26 pm

    I was just thinking I wanted to try a “Jack Rose” cocktail and then I thought, “but who the heck even drinks apple jack anymore?!”

    Apparently DougJ does.

  24. 24.

    DougJ

    January 28, 2010 at 10:31 pm

    I was just thinking I wanted to try a “Jack Rose” cocktail and then I thought, “but who the heck even drinks apple jack anymore?!”

    So apparently Laird is kind of a fraud — 1/3 actual apple liquor, 2/3 neutral spirits. Check this one out, or Clear Creek, instead.

  25. 25.

    Dennis G.

    January 28, 2010 at 10:34 pm

    For some reason this post reminds me of the perfect Martini recipe (although, I’m sure there may be other views on the subject).

    Years ago in Texas I walked into a local Austin package store to get some supplies for a party. I had plan to try my hand at mixing some Martinis, a drink I had not made before but had come to enjoy now and then, but had never tried to make at home. The helpful clerk noticed my shopping basket and asked if I wanted a simple and perfect Martini recipe. I nodded yes.

    He made clear that the secret was getting and keeping things cold until serving. Here are the details:

    Step one. Find a glass container. This could be a fine glass pitcher, a large mason jar or anything in between (I’ve settled on those 1 quart or 2 quart Glass Refrigerator Pitchers with lids available at many supermarkets).

    Step two.Take your glass container and place it in the freezer along with the glasses you’ll use for your Martinis. Place your Gin and/or vodka in the freezer as at the same time. Then wait for it all to get very cold. It is best to have them in the freezer overnight, but a few hours in advance does the trick in a pinch.

    Step three. Take your frozen glass container out of the freezer. Poor in some vermouth (how much is your choice), swirl the vermouth around the inside of the cantainer and then pour it all out with the appropiate amount of distain.

    Step four. Fill the vermouth lined frozen container with ice.

    Step five. Retrive your core beverage for your Martini batch (the gin or vodka you placed in the freezer) and pour it over the mass of ice. Keep your eye on that mass of ice and keep pouring until you notice it move ever so slightly (this is more an art than a science). When the ice moves: Stop.

    Step six. Retreive your frozen glasses and pour your martinis or return the container to the freezer and wait until your guests arrive.

    Now I know that there are many other ways to mix a Martini and some are quite good, but I have been using this reciepe ever since that day in Austin and I have found it to be simple and almost fool proof. When we’re having a party, I’ve been able to make several batches of gin and vodka martinis in advance and let them chill in the freezer. When friends arrive I’m pouring them a fine martini faster than I could open a beer.

    I think it was the line about the Bluecoat gin that got me thinking about this. The bottle of Bombay Sapphire in the freezer is getting low and I’ll need to replace it soon. Perhaps I should give this Bluecoat stuff my Martini test.

    Cheers

    dengre

  26. 26.

    Jason Bylinowski

    January 28, 2010 at 10:36 pm

    Liquor. Good times.

    Speaking of good times, I should mention something which is going to sound crack-pottish but nevertheless is something I’ve noticed in my recent days:

    Some of you may remember (well, okay, two of you, if that) about five months ago or so I declared myself unfit, and started on this new lifestyle of balanced nutrition and exercise. I say balanced nutrition because you can’t really call it a diet since I am taking in the normal amount of calories for my BMI. Anyway, long story short, I had tweaked my routine like crazy over and over again, done all kinds of exercise and whatnot, but got stuck after about 20 pounds of weight loss. I just hit a wall. And then Thanksgiving happened, and I actually managed to gain three pounds.

    Anyway, I got so upset that I just said, you know what, screw it, I’m picking up a huge bottle of polish vodka and we are going to have ourselves a week off and a nice long run of getting buzzed every night. I was still doing everything else the same, eating and exercising every day.

    At the end of that week, I had lost three pounds.
    I did it again the next week, and by the end of that week, I had lost four more pounds.
    By this time, I was superstitious about it, so I maintained about two shots worth of liquor per night for the next two weeks, and splurged like hell on the weekends (but again, dietwise and exercise-wise, I have been very disciplined).

    And that is how I went from 20 pounds to 35 pounds of weight lost in about one third the time it took from zero to 20. Is is a fluke? I don’t know. It’s been fun though, and I’m gonna keep it going until the results change.

  27. 27.

    Jason Bylinowski

    January 28, 2010 at 10:41 pm

    @DougJ: Oh yeah, Laird’s is terrible, it says right on the bottle that it’s like 80 percent neutral grain spirits. You can definitely feel it on the way down, too. But it’s all I can manage to get in my little town, and believe me, I’ve tried to find an alternative. Apple brandy is just hard to come by around here. But I will say this about bad liquor: it creates a taste baseline which is very valuable later on, and there is no doubt in my mind at all, that even though Laird’s is mostly terrible, it’s still a novel drinking experience, and actually not bad for a hard liquor. It’s just not really very apply.

  28. 28.

    MikeF

    January 28, 2010 at 10:51 pm

    @Tom Hilton: Anchor does a Genever-style artisan gin as well if I’m not mistaken. I’ve been keeping my eyes open but haven’t seen either yet in my neck of the woods. Heard good things about both.

  29. 29.

    PDXChris

    January 28, 2010 at 10:53 pm

    @Tom Hilton

    Actually, Aviation is distilled in Portland, OR by House Spirits. Strongly recommend Aviation and their Aquavit. They also distill small batches of whatever, and the whatever is usually damned good.

  30. 30.

    Ash Can

    January 28, 2010 at 10:58 pm

    @Ailuridae:

    I’m going to one of those liquor stores that has “everything” in about 30 minutes (as compared to my normal corner store that has Edmund Fitzgerald for 10$ including tax) so I’m open to suggestions.

    If it’s a place in the Chicago area that really does have everything, it’s probably a Binny’s, in which case don’t ask us, ask the guys who work there. They’ll start by asking you what kind of flavors you prefer, and then they’ll literally walk you through the sections that are right for you. And don’t be surprised if your “six-pack” turns into a 4-pack, a 12-pack, or a 750-ml.

  31. 31.

    Goblue72

    January 28, 2010 at 10:58 pm

    Lairds has three apple brandy products of which their applejack is the cheapest – in price and quality. They have an aged brandy which is nicebut not worth the price IMHO. Go for their middle product for cocktails like a Jack Rose – Lairds Bottled-in-Bond 100 proof Apple Brandy. It’s all apple brandy, no neutral grain spirits.

    For domestic aged apple brandies, St George Spirits (the Hangar One folks) do a nice apple brandy – I think it’s aged five years IIRC.

    On gins, I’ve tried Aviation and Junipero both. Thing with artisinal gins is they are aiming for their own distinct botanical style, so it’s hard to say “this ones better.” it’s more about personal taste and what you plan to mix it with.

    Personally, if you really want to go on a great space coaster, Anchor distilling also does rye whiskey – try their 18th century – it’s a rough hewn ye olde style – like a pan galactic gargle blaster but better.

  32. 32.

    DougJ

    January 28, 2010 at 11:31 pm

    @Dennis

    Sounds like a good recipe.

  33. 33.

    Mojotron

    January 28, 2010 at 11:32 pm

    Bluecoat is great, Leopold’s is better- but it don’t come cheap.

    Great Lakes brewing Co. finally made it to the DC area two weeks ago and I’ve been a happy camper ever since. I’m a big fan of the Edmund Fitzgerald, but the Dortmunder Gold is really, really fucking good and may be the best american beer I’ve had.

  34. 34.

    DougJ

    January 28, 2010 at 11:32 pm

    But I will say this about bad liquor: it creates a taste baseline which is very valuable later on

    Yes, I agree completely.

  35. 35.

    Ailuridae

    January 28, 2010 at 11:43 pm

    @Ash Can:

    Sadly No Binnys or Sam’s by me. This is the joint:

    http://www.yelp.com/biz/dicarlos-armanetti-chicago-2

    As they come toward close they don’t have any beer enthusiasts on typically. I went with the Bell’s Christmas because I haven’t had it this year and it came in around 8 with tax on sale.

  36. 36.

    goblue72

    January 29, 2010 at 12:05 am

    @Dennis G.: I’m sorry but that’s not a Martini. I don’t know what that is (a glass of cold gin?), but that is most definitely NOT a Martini. I don’t know where this abomination of “swirl and pour out” the vermouth came from, but its just wrong. I’ll blame it for convenience sake on those “become a bartender in a week” certificate courses.

    What makes a martini not just a glass of cold gin is the VERMOUTH. That is what make it a cocktail – the combination of base spririt + sweetening agent + water (in this case, ice melting). (technically, also + bitters) You are supposed to be able to taste the vermouth. If you cannot taste the vermouth, you are not drinking a Martini.

    The problem lies in that your average crap bar has its previously opened vermouth bottle sitting on the shelf for months on end because Joe the Bartender assumes all spririts are the same. Which they aren’t. In this case, vermouth being a fortified wine will go bad after its been opened and sitting on the shelf for a few months, it goes bad, getting a bit sour tasting. Joe the Bartender, not knowing any better, then just assumes vermouth is supposed to taste that way and gets scared about using it.

    Between 1:3 – 1:5, vermouth to gin ratio. I’ve seen 1:7, but at that point, what’s the point – you are back in a glass of cold gin land again.

    Stir with ice, don’t shake. Shaking produces ice shards which cloud the drink. Don’t store the gin in the fridge. You want it room temperature so when you add the ice, you actually cause the ice to melt a bit – you WANT dilution. It softens the alcohol allowing you to TASTE the botanicals in the gin and in the vermouth.

    For extra complexity add a dash or two of orange bitters – and some say its more historically accurate that way as well, given that a cocktail (an American invention by the way), is a traditionally a base spirit + sweetening agent + bitters + water.

  37. 37.

    frosty

    January 29, 2010 at 12:51 am

    @Goblue72

    So I’m guessin’ that this martini recipe isn’t to your taste:

    1. Fill highball glass with ice.
    2. Fill remainder of highball glass with gin.
    3. Place glass on counter.
    4. Place lamp with 100-watt light bulb on counter (off)
    5. Carefully place full bottle of vermouth between lamp and highball glass.
    6. Turn lamp on for 30 seconds, no more, no less.
    7. Add olive if desired.
    8. Enjoy your martini!!!

    — frosty +3

  38. 38.

    dadanarchist

    January 29, 2010 at 12:52 am

    DougJ:

    Tuthilltown puts out some fine hooch if you are a whisky-drinking man.

    Their rye is outstanding, and their bourbon is among the smoothest I’ve ever sipped. You pay premium and it isn’t for everyday drinking (unless you have the wealth of a bankster), but it is worth it after one of those days.

  39. 39.

    Ripley

    January 29, 2010 at 2:25 am

    Read this thread, poured a glass (Basil Hayden, good standby). Second the recommendation for Tuthilltown whiskys, any of ’em. If their 4-Grain bourbon were a woman, I’d marry her.

  40. 40.

    MaximusNYC

    January 29, 2010 at 2:38 am

    My wife ordered a bottle of the Bluecoat gin for me recently. I’m no connoisseur of booze, but that’s good stuff.

  41. 41.

    Kirk Spencer

    January 29, 2010 at 7:11 am

    Dougj, I think I can make heads and tails of your problem (and you thought that expression only applied to coins?) The short version is that heads is methanol, tails is water, and everything between is ethanol.

    Longer…

    All liquids boil. Most boil at different temperatures.

    Drinking alcohol (ethanol) boils at 173F. Non-drinking alcohol (methanol) boils at 148.4F. Water boils at 212F. (All at sea level pressure.)

    All three are present in your mash.

    As the temperature climbs from room temperature, the first thing it starts boiling (and hence sending up the evaporation column) is methanol. That’s your head.

    When the temp hits 173F, ethanol joins in. At this point you pull the head drop and put the main collector under the pipe, and accept you’re still going to get some methanol (though most will be gone). (btw, the slower you raise the temp the less methanol will be in the final, but you’re headed into “art” for flavors.)

    At around 212 water joins the party. As with the methanol, most but not all of the ethanol will be gone at this point. This makes a reasonable cutoff point for keeping the distillation distilled, and everything after is “tails”.

  42. 42.

    RSR

    January 29, 2010 at 7:32 am

    Oh, that Bluecoat gin is great. It’s made just a few miles from us. The same company also makes a vodka in homage to state founder William Penn, plus they make an absinthe.

    You can check them out here: http://www.philadelphiadistilling.com/

  43. 43.

    HeartlandLiberal

    January 29, 2010 at 8:51 am

    Here is your liquor related fact for the day.

    Americans are a predominately hard liquor and beer drinking nation because the the ‘Little Ice Age’: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Little_Ice_Age.

    In a nutshell, this cooling period hit northern Europe so hard in the late middle ages it stopped wine production. People had to drink, and left over grain made good beer and hard liquor.

    The first couple centuries migration to what was to become the United States saw predominately northern Europeans, more than willing to leave the cold and harsher conditions. The Mediterranean stayed warmer, kept on growing wine, and in the first couple centuries of the mass migrations to North America saw fewer from that area eager to decamp for the new world.

    And the Northern European settlers they took with them their preference for hard liquor and beer. One of my favorite founding fathers understood this.

    George Washington was the only founding father to commercially operate a whiskey distillery, and its size and volume of production rank the building among the most important historic structures of its kind. The distillery was a very successful economic component of Mount Vernon. At its peak production period in 1799, five stills and a boiler produced 11,000 gallons of whiskey valued at $7,500.

    http://dc.about.com/od/museumsinnorthernva/a/GWGristmill.htm

    To this day, 88% or beer is drunk by 15% of Americans, and the majority of that 15% is concentrated on the west and east coasts of the nation.

    Climate change has its consequences on history. Just saying.

  44. 44.

    Sarcastro

    January 29, 2010 at 9:33 am

    And the Northern European settlers they took with them their preference for hard liquor and beer. One of my favorite founding fathers understood this.

    Alas, Hamilton understood it less. Albeit he did grok the economics well enough to only tax Washington’s distillery at $.06 a gallon while independent farmers had to pay $.09 on the gallon. And you can kind of thank him for forcing the independents into the West where they developed Bourbon and Tennessee whisky.

  45. 45.

    twiffer

    January 29, 2010 at 10:06 am

    i bought bluecoat gin on a whim and fell deeply in love with it. that stuff is fucking delicious and makes a dangerously quaffable martini. mmmm.

  46. 46.

    Tom Hilton

    January 29, 2010 at 11:09 am

    @Tom Hilton: um, Germain-Robin, I mean. Brain fart.

  47. 47.

    DZ

    January 29, 2010 at 11:17 am

    I drink no hard liquor except eau de vie, and the plum eau de vie sounds great. An artisinal slivovitz (sp?) I guess. For artisinal eau de vie, look for Clear Creek Distillery here in Portland. Excellent stuff including eau de vie de framboises (raspberries) – 14 lbs of raspberries in every 1/2 bottle – delicious.

  48. 48.

    cfaller96

    January 29, 2010 at 11:37 am

    Um, why is liquor blogging “Good News for Conservatives”…? Oh, I get it- is it because everything is good news for conservatives?

    I can’t imagine what kind of an unmanageable mess that tag search would look like.

    /nerd

  49. 49.

    DougJ

    January 29, 2010 at 2:04 pm

    @Kirk

    Thanks.

  50. 50.

    Mayur

    January 29, 2010 at 3:07 pm

    Hm; looks like Goblue72 beat me to the punch on, well, everything.

    Lairds 100 is an excellent spirit, and a standby at every serious cocktail bar round these parts. As to comparing Junipero to Aviation gin: it’s apples to oranges. Suffice to say I’d rather have the junipero in my bar; it’s more quintessentially “ginny.” It also makes the definitive Last Word and Juniperitivo cocktails, whereas I’ve yet to encounter a drink to which the Aviation gin lends a significant improvement over Bluecoat, Plymouth, or Bulldog.

  51. 51.

    Mayur

    January 29, 2010 at 3:19 pm

    BTW, the Anchor Spirits genever is callex Genevieve; too funky for my tastes. I vastly prefer the Bols, which, though expensive (clocks in around $43 here in NYC) is delicious.

  52. 52.

    Dennis G.

    January 30, 2010 at 11:19 pm

    @goblue72:

    I knew somebody would disagree. Thanks.

    I will follow your suggestions and compare. Over the years I have tried many variations. I am delighted to see your passion on the subject.

    Cheers

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