On the Road is a weekday feature spotlighting reader photo submissions.
From the exotic to the familiar, whether you’re traveling or in your own backyard, we would love to see the world through your eyes.
way2blue
I hadn’t quite anticipated the press of tourist buses in Torres del Paine, even during ‘shoulder’ season. I’d asked at the hosteria about hiring a guide to seek out wildlife. The receptionist, not particularly energized, asked: ‘Have you seen guanaco?’ Yes. ‘Darwin’s Rhea?’ Yes. ‘Southern Cara Cara’ Yes. ‘Huemul?’… Okay you’ve already seen everything except Puma. Which you’re not going to see…
We did see significant wildfire damage from the Dec 2011-Jan 2012 fire. Mainly as widely spaced tree skeletons. The fire, apparently caused by a camper trying to burn toilet paper, raged for weeks in a park known for strong persistent winds. Burned 176 sq km (68 sq mi) around Lago Pehoé, Salto Grande waterfall, and Lago Sarmiento.
![On The Road - way2blue - TORRES DEL PAINE, CHILE, MARCH 2023 [2 of 2] 7](https://balloon-juice.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/9-Gray-Resort-768x564.jpg)
We visited Lago Gray several times. In part, because after a hike we could enjoy the resort’s bistro with its huge windows looking out across the lake. Hence the fancy cheesecake with calafate berry topping & sorbet…
![On The Road - way2blue - TORRES DEL PAINE, CHILE, MARCH 2023 [2 of 2] 6](https://balloon-juice.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/10-Lago-Gray-1-768x576.jpg)
The lake had this amazing blue ice berg. We’d learned during our cruise that the blue color indicates ice which has had the air bubbles compressed out.
![On The Road - way2blue - TORRES DEL PAINE, CHILE, MARCH 2023 [2 of 2] 5](https://balloon-juice.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/11-Lago-Gray-5-768x576.jpg)
Closer look at the ice berg.
![On The Road - way2blue - TORRES DEL PAINE, CHILE, MARCH 2023 [2 of 2] 4](https://balloon-juice.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/12-Lago-Gray-7-768x576.jpg)
The glacier which feeds the lake is at the far end. Prevailing winds pile up ice debris along a long windy spit which connects the shore to a small island.
![On The Road - way2blue - TORRES DEL PAINE, CHILE, MARCH 2023 [2 of 2] 3](https://balloon-juice.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/13-Lago-Gray-8-768x576.jpg)
A ferry circumnavigates the lake, taking passengers close to the toe of glacier. We opted not to take the ride since we’d already been up close to several glaciers on our cruise.
![On The Road - way2blue - TORRES DEL PAINE, CHILE, MARCH 2023 [2 of 2] 2](https://balloon-juice.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/14-Lago-Gray-B6-768x576.jpg)
Besides the island, there were a few other trails to hike near Lago Gray. Note the tree skeletons on the left. We walked this trail just above the Pingo stream valley, paralleling the lake till the trail headed steeply uphill. I’m fine going uphill but hate hiking rough trails downhill as I need to watch. Every. Single. Step. (New stitches in my right elbow to reinforce the hard-won message.)
![On The Road - way2blue - TORRES DEL PAINE, CHILE, MARCH 2023 [2 of 2] 1](https://balloon-juice.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/15-Lago-Gray-B2-768x576.jpg)
Fun geology.
![On The Road - way2blue - TORRES DEL PAINE, CHILE, MARCH 2023 [2 of 2]](https://balloon-juice.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/17-Lago-Gray-B5-768x576.jpg)
A tilted stack of turbidites, I presume, with a few small faults cutting through.
eclare
That dessert looks awesome! Pretty lake, too. s/
Dagaetch
Beautiful!
HinTN
turbidites – I have learned a new word.
And enjoyed the tour. Thanks!
Madeleine
Thanks for the photos yesterday and today. I should have commented yesterday—those mountains are so strange, strange and beautiful. Today: what a cute little blue iceberg!
Yutsano
Blue iceberg is blue! I love how it’s out there in the lake doing its own thing. But all the scenery is stunning!
pieceofpeace
Looks like miles away from ‘modern’ life as we experience most days. And right now, that vision from your trip is very inviting. Your photos give an immediate thought of planning a trip for getting away to nature’s grandeur, and those ideas will be desired often in the coming year.
way2blue
@Madeleine: You can tell I was fascinated by that little iceberg, just cruising around the lake.
BigJimSlade
For that last picture, I think the geological term is “stripey” ;-)
way2blue
@pieceofpeace: Yes. Something calming about being immersed in large empty landscapes. A few nature time-outs over the next year is definitely a good plan…
StringOnAStick
I think we did our W hike very early in the season because we had no crowds and we got snowed on a couple of times. I got teary eyes taking that ferry back to civilization because I had so loved hiking in such a grand, wild landscape. It is truly a magical place.
The damage from that fire is horrific; the Lenga trees are extremely slow growing and are only found in this part of the world. The guides were still very emotional about what has been lost and the hundreds of years it will take to restore those lost trees.
Dan B
Blue ice is common in glaciers in the Cascades, unfortunately the glaciers are rapidly disappearing even from Mt. Rainier.
bjacques
Cool pictures!
I saw some blue ice once in Snoqualmie Park, WA, off the Mountain Loop (?), 30 years ago. It was a 2 mile hike from a spot where a 1920s grand hotel had burned down, then across a pebbly plain. The ice cave was in permanent shade. I wonder if it’s still there.