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if you can’t see it, then you are useless in the fight to stop it.

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You are here: Home / John Cole Presents "Stories from the Road" / Made it to Flagstaff

Made it to Flagstaff

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Before I write anything I want to note that it does not matter where you are in the country, if you are traveling by highway for more than an hour at some point a ginormous American Jet Black SUV with Florida license plates will come barreling past you doing 110 miles per hour. And I guarantee it will be either an Expedition, a Yukon, or an Escalade.

So yesterday was just a long ass day with everything taking longer and being more irritating. The cats made a royal disaster out of the car, Thurston added a crate to his list of items he has chewed through, Joelle’s uterus dictated a number of unplanned stops, we tried to eat at the Big Texan in Amarillo but the wait was absurd, and by the time I had the car unloaded and cleaned up, the animals all fed and bedded down for the night, us fed and in the room, all I wanted to do was sleep.

I’m not gonna lie, I was in that exhausted travel mode that at one point in the little family Thai restaurant we finally ate at, as we were waiting for food to be delivered, I had the whole questioning my life choices conversation- “At what point did I make the choice that got me to here- starving to death in a wood paneled thai restaurant with a pool table and a gambling machine in fucking Texas after 12 hours of voluntarily driving two cats and a dog in a car that smells like the dumpster at an underfunded animal shelter… what choice do I go back and change to get to retired millionaire on an island.”

But that was yesterday. We woke up bright and early and visited Cadillac Ranch for sunset, then headed on down the road to Tucumcari and hit a diner for breakfast. Joelle had some flapjacks and I had eggs over easy, bacon, some hash browns, and out of nowhere ordered a slice of apple pie with a scoop of ice cream. Joelle told me that eating diner pie on Route 66 is an iconic thing to do, but I had no idea. I personally think planting a twelve foot wide five foot tall illuminated glass case full of pie right at the entrance that every fucking fat guy has to walk past and of course they are going to order pie.

Today’s drive was awesome. Clear blue skies and 40 degrees, and the topography of New Mexico is some of the prettiest I have ever seen. The change from the Texas panhandle to New Mexico was really quite remarkable. The closest thing I can compare it to is the difference between East and West Germany when I was stationed there. West Germany was bright, modern, with bright colors and clear skies and hope. You would drive five clicks to the East in be in the former DDR and everything was different shades of beige and dingy and depressing.

As soon as we left Texas, it was like leaving East Germany. Dingy prairie was immediately replaced with striking mesas, deep brown sunburnt rock formations,the sagebrush like vegetation providing some greens, and the labyrinthine wadi like ravines (I dunno what they called them in the sw, we called em wadi’s in the middle east) with the striking snow capped mountains to the north. The descent into the Rio Grand Valley and Albuquerque is one of those things you kinda have to experience, too. At some points the mountains were less jagged, and if you didn’t pay attention to the scarcity and variety of vegetation, felt almost Appalachian.

We were going to stop in Albuquerque, but were both feeling so good that we decided to press on to Flagstaff. The prairie portions of that region were unremarkable in every way except their sheer enormity, but the slow climb up towards Flagstaff and the Colorado Plateau was quite the reward, and I liked seeing the reemergence of trees, even if they were just garbage firs and pinion pines. We went to La Fondida for Mexican, and now are preparing for bed, but I wanted to make sure I gave proof of life- we are all still alive and kicking.

Thurston is getting better or I am getting better at handling Thurston, and have learned to drug him a half hour before getting him into the car so I can pour him into the car once he is in a stupor. Since he shredded his crate we are now down to the auxilliary cat carrier, which he can barely turn around in, and we put that in the backseat and put a light blanket over him. He’s in his own little snug and comfy world like William Hurt in Altered States, and every hour or so we turn the music down to make sure he is still snoring. Right now he is under the covers in bed with Joelle.

I have a ton of pics but the wifi sucks, so I will share them another day.

It is at this point intrepid readers familiar with the southwest are asking why the fuck did you press on to Flagstaff instead of just going to Tempe. And the answer, folks, is I would rather shoot myself in the face than show up to her house at 8pm and unload two cats and a dog, all of whom need to be bathed at this point (except Maxwell because YOU fucking get near his murder mittens with a faucet), AND deal with integrating them into the two existing dogs who have spent the last week wondering where Joelle is and then she shows up with this crowd of carnies. Fuck that. Joelle had never been to Flagstaff via this route, it was a nice day, and the drive from Flagstaff to Tempe will be nice, and we will arrive at a time where we can slowly and methodically put this new family of dogs and cats togethe together.

We are going to get up when we want, slop the hogs, get some breakfast for ourselves, and then head home. I’ll fill you in with more tomorrow.

I don’t think Joelle will read this far down, but the next time we drive cross country I am going to write an end table phot book called “The Complete Guide to Bathrooms and Rest Stops of the Southwest.” Why not? I’ve already done the fucking research.

Reader Interactions

147Comments

  3. 3.

    schrodingers_cat

    I don’t think Joelle will read this far down, but the next time we drive cross country I am going to write an end table phot book called “The Complete Guide to Bathrooms and Rest Stops of the Southwest.” Why not? I’ve already done the fucking research.

    Not only will she read it but she will never forget that you wrote this 10 years from now. Its not just elephants who can remember.

  4. 4.

    Chief Oshkosh

    Great descriptiveness. Now you’ve got me hankering to make that transitive trip from Texas panhandle to New Mexico. Thanks, ya jackass.

     

    ;)

  5. 5.

    Adam L Silverman

    Arroyos. They’re called arroyos. When either modified for use in agriculture or completely man made, specifically canal irrigation, they’re acequias. And while that word is from the Catalan, the technology originates in Iraq/the Levant.

  7. 7.

    Adam L Silverman

    @Chief Oshkosh: I always used to stay in Shamrock and then make the final leg to our house in Panderies north of Las Vegas, NM the next day. Though one time when I did the trip with my dad we stopped in Amarillo and ate at the Big Texan.

  11. 11.

    dnfree

    I am going to clarify the “uterus” thing once and for all.

    Women have one sphincter for urine.  Men have TWO.  TWO.  I did not know this until my husband’s urologist explained that after removal of his prostate, he would have only one sphincter, “like your wife”.  So John, if you still have your prostate, you still have two sphincters and are able to hold your pee better.  End of explanation.

  12. 12.

    piratedan

    Enjoy the ride outta Flag on I17.  It’s pretty much all downhill (and a bit curvy in stretches).  If you take the long way thru Sedona and Cottonwood its a bit more scenic but after your trek across country, you may just want to make it easy on yourselves.  Reminder to have Maps or Waze up in case there’s an accident on the way down as there are only so many ways down from the rim.

    IIRC, there’s only so many places to attend to bodily functions on the way down, so keep an eye on the rest stops as about the only town that’s on the way down is Camp Verde.  There is Montezuma’s Castle state park (or maybe its National) that should allow a bit of walkies if there’s a need.

    welcome to Arizona, hope you can come to love the state as I have.

  14. 14.

    Full-time Lurker

    Oklahoma City to Amarillo has to be one of the most tedious stretches of I-40. Its only redeeming grace is the rest stop between the Oklahoma state line and Amarillo with the signs warning you to “Beware of Rattlesnakes”.  Real nice rest stop though.

  15. 15.

    Jackie

    I’m glad you finally had a beautiful scenic drive to ease your LAST DAY OF DRIVING for tomorrow! I can’t wait to hear your description of the four-legged meet and greet!

    Enjoy today’s tranquility, because…. Tomorrow is gonna be “fun!!!”

  16. 16.

    SpaceUnit

    Reading this blog is the reason I don’t have a dog or cat.

     

    I had a pet mouse a few years ago.  Long story, but she was a sweetheart.

  18. 18.

    mrmoshpotato

    Hearing Flagstaff and Albuquerque reminds me of taking Amtrak back from LA from my cousin’s wedding.  Great trip.

  19. 19.

    Nukular Biskits

    …if you are traveling by highway for more than an hour at some point a ginormous American Jet Black SUV with Florida license plates will come barreling past you doing 110 miles per hour. And I guarantee it will be either an Expedition, a Yukon, or an Escalade.

    John should be so lucky as to travel I-10, especially on Friday or Sunday afternoon, particularly in the summertime.

    Hordes of LA and TX assholes travel to/from Gulf Shores, AL, Pensacola and/or Destin, FL, for the weekends.

    I absofuckinglutely hate driving I-10 eastbound on Fridays and westbound on Sundays/Mondays.

  21. 21.

    Gvg

    I think this is why my dad wanted a Roadtrek camper. He wanted to go everywhere and camp, but mother needed a bathroom. The roadtrek is a large van with a tiny bathroom and even a tiny kitchen. Since he was used to driving a truck pulling his ski boat, this wasn’t too much for him. Covid screwed up his planned 6 week southwest trip. There is maintenance though. They bought a used one because new ones are really expensive.

  23. 23.

    Suzanne

    …..gotta say, though….. why all the snark about women needing bathroom breaks on a road trip? This is, like, one step up from “take my wife…. PLEASE!”.

  24. 24.

    rekoob

    When I lived in New Mexico, I traversed between there and my hometown (Richmond, Virginia), as well as other points east. I share with the blogfather the relief I felt as I crossed into New Mexico on that final leg (for me) of Amarillo-Santa Fe. That last 5-ish hours gave me some options to get home, and I always enjoyed the scenery, knowing that a Green Chile Cheeseburger was at the end of the trail.

    Glad y’all are in Flag without incident.

  25. 25.

    Rocks

    Dude – you haven’t been to New Mexico before?  Shit, you’ve got some catching up to do!  Carlsbad Caverns, White Sands, green chili cheesburgers at Sparky’s in Hatch, the Organ Mountains above Las Cruces, Santa Fe, Los Alamos, Taos gorge bridge with the Sangre de Cristo’s in the background at sunset, Georgia O’Keefe country – the list just goes on.  Do yourself a favor and come and spend some time exploring it – you won’t regret it.

  27. 27.

    piratedan

    @Suzanne: just hoping that their last leg will be …. uneventful.  The Flagstaff Area is pretty (imho) and so is the Camp Verde area before you drop down off of the rim.

    There’s a LOT to explore if inclined, but it takes a long time to get to places (even from Phoenix) and I assume that the rest of the winter, they’ll be busy setting up house.

  28. 28.

    Yutsano

    It just occurred to me that I hear almost nothing about tourism in New Mexico. You would think a state with that much beauty to it would be flocking with visitors. But I looked it up and their most visited National Park was White Sands and it only had around 750K visitors last year. Maybe the government of New Mexico could step up the tourism game to get some needed cash into the state. Unless I’m missing something. Which is possible.

  32. 32.

    Suzanne

    @piratedan: I love Flag. I would have been happy to live there, but there’s not a lot of work doing what I do. And Mr. Suzanne is unimpressed.

    Yeah, distance is the thing about the Southwest that makes it a bit challenging. Things are just really spread out and there is often just one two-lane highway to get somewhere. I have spent far too many hours stuck on some shitty road in the middle of fuck-nowhere in the desert, because there was a car accident ahead of me and no detour for fifty miles. The natural landscape is beautiful but it’s definitely not forgiving.

  34. 34.

    SpaceUnit

    @Yutsano:

    New Mexico’s tourist allure is subtle.  It ain’t Vegas.

    There’s certain type of person who wants to trudge into the Bisti Wilderness or scale up and down the cliff trails of Bandelier National Monument.  But it’s not for the cruise ship or Disneyland crowd.

    Also, Flagstaff AZ is awesome.

  36. 36.

    piratedan

    @Yutsano: It’s a very pretty state with a lot of unique areas.  It’s like a lot of things… its complicated…and like Arizona, it’s not just ONE thing.  Multiple ecosystems, lots of different type of agriculture and business but they don’t have that one killer national park that people flock to (although Carlsbad is worthy of it).

  37. 37.

    mrmoshpotato

    @cain:

    did you read about how Amtrak has money to upgrade their overnight trains ?! ::happy dance:: 

    No, I didn’t know that!

    Thank you, President Biden!

    The new “Midwest” cars are damn nice.  Only been on them on the Wolverine service from Chicago to Ann Arbor and back.

    Upgrading the cars on the overnight routes from the west coast will be AWESOME if they’re doing that.

  38. 38.

    rekoob

    @Suzanne: @Yutsano: “Bougie artist towns” is a bit tart, I believe. After all, there’s an entire school of early 20th-century painters beyond Georgia O’Keeffe:

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Los_Cinco_Pintores

    Not to mention distinguished artists such as Allan Houser, Judy Chicago, and Dan Namingha (full disclosure — I have a couple of small Naminghas).

    Tourism in New Mexico is quite active, and dates back at least to the enterprising Fred Harvey.

  39. 39.

    mrmoshpotato

    @NotMax:

    Long Island Expressway is chock-a-block with Escalades and Tiguans. 99% of which are black. 

    There’s a Hawaiian island named Long?  Is it new?

  44. 44.

    Suzanne

    @rekoob: It’s not meant to be an insult. Just noting that both of those places are pretty spendy destinations for tourists, and definitely attract a cohort of artists and collectors, and the tourism is  definitely catered to those with some money to spend!

    Fritz Scholder is another New Mexico (and Arizona) artist whose work I really enjoy. HOWEV…. probably my favorite artist of the Southwest would be Maynard Dixon.

  49. 49.

    wjca

    Some beautiful country in Arizona.  As long as you remember one thing: none of it is in the Valley of the Sun.

  51. 51.

    Anthony

    Memphis is an exception to the usual “out-of-state drivers are the worst” rule because TN, AK, and MS drivers are ALL terrible here, but then the occasional FL driver will show up and zoom past or go the speed limit in the left lane, and all will feel right in the world for a minute.

  52. 52.

    Joelle

    @dnfree: Sistergirl to the physiological explanation rescue.  That is some gauntlet throwin shit.  Someone may lose a sphincter by sunrise and then know what it’s like to ride to Tempe on one lousy sphincter instead of 2.

  53. 53.

    Bupalos

    Russian missiles apparently used NATO airspace to conduct their regularly scheduled destructuon of lives and livelihoods.

    Genuinely surprised Putin is deciding to start the escalatatiion just now.

  54. 54.

    rekoob

    @Suzanne: What I most enjoyed about living in Santa Fe was that I could see both established and emerging artists in museum-quality settings at various galleries, but was under no obligation to buy them. I often quipped that Santa Fe had more galleries than gas stations, which I believe is still true.

    Dixon had quite the life!

  56. 56.

    Suzanne

    @Joelle: I have had to squat and pee on the side of I-10, I-17, and US60 over the course of my life. It sucked. I’m kind of shocked that an adult human male who has, presumably, known adult human women is busting your chops about bathroom breaks on a road trip,

  57. 57.

    JCJ

    I love your comparison to West Germany vs East Germany.  I remember being in East Berlin on a cloudy day in February then taking the subway back to West Berlin.  We were staying right off Kurfürstendamm.  We got out at the Ku’damm station and went upstairs into all of the lights and vitality of West Berlin.  I can picture the bleakness of Texas transitioning to actual scenery in New Mexico

  58. 58.

    Suzanne

    @rekoob: A not-very-well-known gem, if you are ever in Tucson, is the Center for Creative Photography. One of the best photography museums in the world. Always worth a stop.

  59. 59.

    Suzanne

    @wjca:

    Some beautiful country in Arizona.  As long as you remember one thing: none of it is in the Valley of the Sun. 

    HEY. Golf courses are beautiful. So are parking lots with little islands with tiny shrubs in them!

  61. 61.

    piratedan

    @Joelle: I see that some remedial lessons for certain staff will be forthcoming :-)

    At least home is within reach and the stress from travel can end and stress from unpacking and acclimation can begin!

  66. 66.

    wjca

    @Suzanne: HEY. Golf courses are beautiful.

    Certainly, they can be. IF you happen to live in a climate with plenty of rain.  But in a desert, especially a desert which is already seriously overpopulated?  Not so much picturesque as simply insane.

  67. 67.

    frosty

    @piratedan: ​ I knew Camp Verde sounded familiar. It’s the biggest town near Dead Horse Ranch State Park, which turned out to be one of our favorites. Like you said, that whole area is very nice.

  68. 68.

    TaMara

    I suppose it’s different with big dogs, we always stop every two hours for a walk. Everyone gets to stretch their legs, do their business and we are happier for it.

    Also, it makes the drive less sucky when driving through the flatlands of NE.

    Love the drive from CO to NM, once past CO Springs. I’ve only been to AZ once – except that short jag when driving to LA. And found Phoenix and the surrounding desert to be quite beautiful.

  69. 69.

    Suzanne

    @Steve in the ATL: I’m not a golfer, but lots of my friends are, and they agree. AFAIAC, there’s not really a good reason to live in the Valley if you’re not a golfer. Of course, I’m still flummoxed that they use all that water to keep golf courses green there! Always blew my mind.

    There’s not enough water, y’all.

  70. 70.

    frosty

    @NotMax: During our 2021 Road Trip we went through Tonopah, so I’ve finally been in all those four towns. Individually, not in the order of the song, though.

  73. 73.

    wjca

    @Suzanne: There isn’t a big iconic employer or industry there.

    There would seem to be a potential growth industry in eldercare.  Of course, to make it economically useful they would have to get the caregivers a decent wage.

  75. 75.

    piratedan

    @Suzanne: If there’s any metro area that should be primed for advances in the solar and wind power generation industries, it should be Phoenix.  Phoenix is behind Tucson in Metro support of water retention and use and a large part of that is due to the GOP being in control for so long but its starting to come around.  Completely agree that the glory days of mindless expansion are done.

  76. 76.

    Rose Weiss

    @wjca: I pay my caregivers $25/hr but it’s part-time and temporary because I wrenched my back and suddenly can’t do lots of the necessary household tasks. But that’s the going rate around here (SW Oregon).

  79. 79.

    CaseyL

    It was with great relief that I read this update.  Your brief post last night was a little worrying :)

    It’s very courteous of you to wait until everyone is rested, clean, and not on the verge of a nervous breakdown before you go to Joelle’s house.  I hope her place has enough space for everyone to spread out as the animals get to know one another.

    I would LOVE to roadtrip through the Southwest.  I’ve barely been to Arizona, and that was so very long ago I barely remember it.

    But I did road trip through New Mexico “only” 30-ish years ago, so I remember quite a bit.  I absolutely loved the place.  The color pallet: desert and mountains, all that red! Carlsbad Cavern! Chaco Canyon! The Pueblos!  The artsy cities! –  I did enjoy Taos immensely, but it did feel a bit like a theme park; like an idealized SW City For Tourists. And of course Los Alamos (which my brother, who lived and worked there for many years back in the 90s-2000s, always called “Lost Almost,” which I think is a local nickname).

    NM may be the only hot-weather state I could tolerate…. I’d seriously consider moving there if they weren’t running out of water.

  81. 81.

    Erin in Flagstaff

    Welcome to Flagstaff! Sounds like you might be on the east side of town. Good breakfast spots include Miz Zip’s, Brandy’s, or The Toasted Owl. There may be some road construction on the I-17, but it should be an okay drive down to Phoenix.

  83. 83.

    Steve in the ATL

    @NotMax: it is now!  West Berlin is old and boring; all the action and fun, new stuff is on the east side! Who would have thought?

  84. 84.

    anitamargarita

    @Suzanne: I think golf should be played on the terrain you have, not the terrain you wish you had. sort of like alpine mountaineering vs indoor wall climbing

  87. 87.

    Villago Delenda Est

    If you’re going to press on to Flagstaff, might as well go a few more miles to Winslow. To look for flat-bed Fords.

  88. 88.

    frosty

    @Villago Delenda Est: ​ Seriously! We swung by when we went to see Petrified Forest. At the intersection every corner made some reference to the song. The best was the one with the statue of Glenn Frey and the red flatbed Ford. And the silhouettes of two people in the window above it.

    Jackson Browne and Glenn Frey really put the place on the map!

  89. 89.

    SpaceUnit

    Used to be a joint in Flagstaff called the Main Street Cafe.  They had fish and chips, but the fish was batter dipped salmon and the chips were waffle fries.

    Holy crap it was good.

  92. 92.

    Anne Laurie

    @CaseyL: NM may be the only hot-weather state I could tolerate…. I’d seriously consider moving there if they weren’t running out of water.

    Also, for some of us, the altitude is… challenging.  I visited Albuquerque for a week some twenty years ago, and I loved the place.  But I also had a nasty rhinovirus, and walking as much as a block made me breathless.  We rode the Sandia Peak Tramway, which was *gorgeous* in May, but by the time we got to the top, my lips & nails were so blue my companion nixed our restaurant plans & hustled us into the next tram down.

  93. 93.

    NotMax

    @SpaceUnit

    Friend who had a radio show here was broadcasting live while on vacation via cell phone from the crater when a sudden squall sped in.

    Before he could seek shelter lightning struck close enough to fry the phone.

  94. 94.

    Ksmiami

    Hey John- you probably won’t read this post, but there’s an awesome park with trails and a dog park in Flagstaff that shouldn’t be missed it’s called Thorpe park and it’s really amazing and we always stop there during our road trips. The cats can stay in their carriers on a picnic table etc. Just my .02.

  96. 96.

    SpaceUnit

    @NotMax:

    That would have been terrifying.

    A friend and I stopped there on a whim as we were passing through after a hiking trip, and neither of us had heard much about it.  We were both in awe.

  97. 97.

    ColoradoGuy

    It’s remarkable how there’s Scenery once you pass a certain boundary line out West. Here in Colorado, everything east of I-25 is called Kansas, and the Mountain West begins right at I-25. Nearly all of New Mexico is spectacular, and Flagstaff and Tucson are definitely worth seeing.

    The enormous distances are startling if you’re from Back East or Europe. Things are pretty far apart here. It’s particularly strange to hear Republicans piss and moan about “not enough room” when you drive through the vast expanses of the Mountain States. Room is one thing we have plenty of.

  98. 98.

    Tehanu

    I remember cross-country trips with my family when I was a kid in the 1950s — 4 kids in a station wagon for four or five days, chintzy motels, lots of bickering and scenery. Thing is, I remember the tiring uncomfortable stuff with the same affection that I remember the exciting fun stuff. Your trip sounds very similar. Hope you keep enjoying it!

  102. 102.

    Chris T.

    at some point a ginormous American Jet Black SUV with Florida license plates will come barreling past you doing 110 miles per hour

    Another reason to impose a Carbon Tax on gasoline to bring the price up to $20/gal (with proceeds rebated to every US citizen, perhaps monthly, regardless of each individual’s age or situation). Transfer the dough from the wasteful to the thrifty.

    Obviously a political nonstarter, alas.

  103. 103.

    Chris T.

    Oh, and, when in Flagstaff, check out Bookman’s for used books. (Haven’t been in decades but it still seems to exist)

  105. 105.

    Ceci n est pas mon nym

    This series would make such a great movie. Cole or some jackal needs to get to work on the pitch. Guaranteed hit! Who’s the lead do you think? Maybe Bradley Cooper’s next project?

    Seriously, in the hands of a good writer it would at least be a hell of a great magazine article.

  106. 106.

    raven

    We moved from North Chicago, Illinois to Whittier, California in 1955 in this Chrysler. 

    We were in traffic in Flagstaff when a car two cars up slammed on his brakes causing a chain collision. We were pulling a U-Haul with our possessions and the guy behind us slammed into it and the hitch and bumper broke and the tongue of the trailer. My old man jumper out of the car, grabbed the guy in front of us by the shirt and, with one hand, slammed him on the trunk of his car! We spent three days in a motel at the foot of a mountain while the car was repaired!

  107. 107.

    SteveinPHX

    You had the right idea. Get a good night’s sleep in Flag. It’ll make the drive down I-17 easier. Watch your speed on some of those downhill curves!

  108. 108.

    swiftfox

    Drove from Phoenix to Memphis in the early 90s.  I remember the NM landscape going into Texas for a few miles before transitioning into panhandle boring. All Easterners should be required to live out west for two years.  Never again will they complain about having to use a 10-mile detour.

  109. 109.

    Barbara

    @Suzanne: ​Dixon’s wife was Dorothea Lange, whose work is featured in a current exhibit at the National Gallery in Washington. I saw it yesterday and the influence of Stiglitz and other NM artists was mentioned.

  110. 110.

    LiminalOwl

    @NotMax: :)

    Years ago, I had a client who was a long-haul trucker.  One day he was telling me something job-related, and said, “I’ve driven all over the US..” and named several places, ending with Tehachapi and Tonapaugh.  Then he looked puzzled and said no, never Tonapaugh… why did I say that?” It took me a few seconds, and then I sang him that line, and he grinned and said yeah, that was it.

  111. 111.

    LiminalOwl

    @wjca: Palm Springs, CA. (Which is as close to the American Southwest as I’ve gotten.). Every house has a large green lawn, and at least one per street seems to have a 9-hole private golf course with sprinklers all the time. Desert all around. (This was in 1997. It’s theoretically possible that the inhabitants have bcome more eco-conscious since.)

  112. 112.

    LiminalOwl

    @Chris T.: Similarly a nonstarter, but I’ve suggested classifying all the SUVs built on truck beds as trucks, and banning them from the left lane of the highway. I’d like to think that, if it could be implemented, that might push people in the direction of smaller cars.

  114. 114.

    Geminid

    @swiftfox: There is a comparable change driving through Oklahoma east on I-40. It’s flat and relatively brown for 80 miles or so beyond Oklahoma City. Then the ground rises and becomes green, with hills and forests not that different from Virginia, That’s the western edge of the Ozark Mountains.

    Going west, those were the last forests I saw until I approached Flagstaff, on the Coconino Plateau.

  116. 116.

    Denali5

    New Mexico is beautiful. We visited the Hopi villages and got up at sunrise to attend the Harvest Ceremony. Visitors were welcome but not photos. It is another world.

  118. 118.

    MomSense

    Your dispatches of this odyssey rival Steinbeck’s Travels with Charley.

    Looking forward to the introductions once you reach Joelle’s place.

  119. 119.

    Doug R

    You’re not too far from the Grand Canyon…and Las Vegas…and Los Angeles is just another 6 hours from there.

  121. 121.

    becca

    I spent most of my childhood in Albuquerque. I still miss it. Arroyos were everywhere and we were told over and over how dangerous it was to go down into them, so of course we did. When the snow melted in the Sandia mountains, the arroyos would be raging rapids or with the very occasional cloudburst, but overall just very dry mini canyons with a random rattlesnake or blue tail lizard sunning on the rocks.

  122. 122.

    emjayay

    @piratedan: I would think that an Arizonan would know that Montezuma Castle, established December 8, 1906,  is the third National Monument dedicated to preserving Native American culture.

    “National Monument” means it was designated by the President, not Congress. The Monument thing was put in place because protecting these sites couldn’t wait for Congress to declare them. And of course many people in Congress representing these places were anti-preservation and pro-ranchers and mining etc.

  123. 123.

    Miss Bianca

    @Tehanu: Me too. My life was changed forever as a result of a cross-country trip we took from Detroit to San Diego when I was ten years old. Introduced me to the West and made me love, love, love road trips, even the ones that flirted with disaster.

    Yup, three kids crammed into the back of a Pontiac LeMans with dodgy air conditioning in the middle of summer.

    It was awesome.

    But I haven’t taken a road trip in quite some time. When my sister lived in New Mexico I used to love to go down there this time of year – the quality of light in northern NM is magical. Even Colorado doesn’t cut it in comparison.

    Now that she’s gone this time of year makes me even more wistful for that drive down.

    Maybe next this coming year…

  124. 124.

    emjayay

    @Adam L Silverman: The dictionary says that a wadi is:

    (especially in North Africa and the Near East) Riverbed in the desert that only carries water after heavy rainfall

    In southern Arizona we called them washes. Maybe everyone has caught on to the Spanish name for them now, arroyos.

  125. 125.

    judybird

    @Gvg: We used to have a 1993 Roadtrek, now have a 2000. The older ones are the best! New ones are insanely expensive, and full of flaws. We’ve taken ours from Southern California to Alaska and the east coast, in April we’re going to Texas for the eclipse.

  126. 126.

    emjayay

    @Gvg: Note: there are various versions of Roadtreks, and also other brands doing about the same thing. The best ones are FWD Ram Promasters (an Americanized Fiat Ducato) with the camper stuff inside. It’s the only FWD large van so it has a much lower floor and thus overall height.

  127. 127.

    emjayay

    @Rocks: The best of the ancient southwestern pueblo places is Chaco Culture. It’s down a 25 mile dirt road off a highway in the middle of nowhere. The more accessible ones are pretty good too.

  128. 128.

    emjayay

    @cain: I think they are replacing everything in the next few years. All their current equipment dates to the years after the founding of Amtrak. I just went from Chicago to SF in coach. The seats aren’t bad for sleeping (bring a pillow) and had clearly been renewed with new cushions and upholstery in some recent year.

    Coach is way cheaper than any kind of room on Amtrak. With the room you get three meals a day. Coach passengers can now buy into the dining car: Breakfast $2o, lunch $25, dinner $45. There are also microwaved food items in the cafe. Best to pack your own food.

  129. 129.

    emjayay

    @NotMax: An Escalade is a spiffed up Chevy body on frame pickup truck based SUV (Tahoe). A Tiguan is a compact unit body car based VW SUV.

    Not the same class by any means, or the same kinds of drivers.

  131. 131.

    Jimmiraybob

    He McCain Ranch isn’t far from Flag and it’s a nice drive. May not have all the bathrooms needed tho.

  132. 132.

    emjayay

    @Anne Laurie: Albuquerque is 4,900 ft (1,500 m) above sea level. If 5000 ft is too hard for you don’t go to Mesa Verde (8000 ft) or you might join the three or so people who die of coronary heart attacks there every year.

     

    @Anne Laurie:

  134. 134.

    Just Some Flyover

    I’m glad the pie was good at the diner on 66. More importantly, though- how were the NYT reporters?

  135. 135.

    Quinerly

    Good Morning! Late to the thread. Maybe the third time will be the charm. I have very spotty cell coverage. This will be the third time I have tried to post a comment.

    I, too, was in Flag yesterday for lunch and a local IPA. Drove up beautiful 89A  thru the clusterfuck that is Sedona traffic and road construction after spending 3 nights in Prescott (LOVE). Left Flag heading north on 89 to one of my several happy places….Cameron Trading Post, Motel, and Restaurant. Here for 3 nights for Navajo home cooking, beautiful people, and a dip into the east entrance (Desert View/Watchtower) for 12/31 sunset on the Grand Canyon.

    If you ever want to stop in Santa Fe, plenty of room at my place for everyone, including critters. If in Tuc again, eat at Del’s….wonderful food, great signage…and I think it’s been there since the 1960’s. In the last 13 years, I have driven the back roads of NM and Northern AZ. Ask me anything. Seriously.

    Safe and happy travels!

  136. 136.

    Quinerly

    @Denali5:  I will be driving thru AZ Hopi Tribal lands, thru Northern AZ in 3 days on my way over to Window Rock for a night and eventually to my home in Santa Fe. Taken that lonely route many times and love it thru there on the BIA roads. One has to really drive it to see it and fully understand….Second Mesa and the old villages.

    Have a great day!

  137. 137.

    Quinerly

    @Villago Delenda Est:

    I am just coming off of 2 nights in Winslow for Christmas Eve and Christmas at the fully and gloriously restored La Posada Hotel (I’m a “Fred Head”….Fred Harvey freak…and adore Mary Colter’s work).

    There is a “Standing on the Corner Park” in Winslow, complete with bronze statues. A flat bed Ford always parked just a few feet away, with a cut out of a blonde sitting on the driver’s side. A must see when in Winslow.

  138. 138.

    Geminid

    @Quinerly: I hope it’s safe and happy travels. Will you make up any On the Road posts? Could be a nice series.

     

    @Quinerly: I never heard the term “Fred Head.” I saw The Harvey Girls though. Fictional, but fun.

  139. 139.

    trollhattan

    Heh, especially Texas as East Germany. Good to know they’re getting the Stasi back together.

    I’d visit Flagstaff, given the chance. The bits of Arizona I have been are not particularly fetching. NAU has one hellova running program, I can tell you that. Enjoy the thin, thin air.

  140. 140.

    Geminid

    @trollhattan: The Lowell Observatory is a nice Flagstaff feature. Its on a hill just outside town. The city’s lights have reduced it’s astronomical activities by a lot, but they have a lot of informative programs for the public.

    I thought it was a nice place just to walk around. There are a few 1920s observatory towers scattered around the grounds. A good place to stretch one’s legs after some hours on the road.

  141. 141.

    Quinerly

    @Geminid:

    Oh, Fred Heads exist. A guy named Stephen Fried kinda gave us some organization when he wrote, “Appetite for America.” And, there were real Harvey Girls.

    Mary Colter, “architect of the SW,” was a fascinating woman.

    For a little stroll down memory lane, I think the “On the Road” feature was started in Feb/March, 2017, when my then traveling dog Poco and I were hijacking the early morning regular posts with “tails” from the road. I even suggested by email that maybe have a dedicated thread every once in awhile to travelers for pictures and suggestions for off beat stuff when on the road. Pretty sure Poco was featured in some early posts from Petrified Forest. That trip we were on a 7000 mile plus trip for 7 weeks, covering NM, Northern AZ, and The Mighty 5 of Utah. I was still living in St. Louis at the time.

    Now you have me wanting to check the dates on those first “On the Roads.” I could be wrong but I think that 2017  winter trip. Maybe Watergirl can check.

    “The Fabulous Flying Quinerly Traveling Road Show”

    Poco blogged trips on my Book of Faces. Now my JoJo las Orejas blogs some in Spanish on FB when we travel.

  145. 145.

    Super Dave

    John, when the summer heat gets to you, there are escapes not far from Tempe. Up the Beeline to Payson (at ~5,000 ft. elevation), then east on the Rim Road (260) to the rim lakes (Woods Canyon and Willow Springs) up on the Mogollon Rim at around 7,000+ ft. Farther along is Heber-Overgaard. When you really want to get away, continue on to Show Low, Pinetop, and Greer in the White Mountains at over 9,000 ft. elevation. Cool summer nights and warm summer days in the high country. In July the monsoons show up with brief afternoon thunderstorms most days. Best family vacations we ever took when we lived in Gilbert. Oh yeah, be sure to take Joelle to the Organ Stop Pizza at Southern and Stapely in Mesa. The pizza’s not great but the entertainment is worth it and the ice cream is good. If you’re around during the holidays it’s worth an evening to see the Mormon Temple in Mesa and the home light displays along Cherry Lane, also in Mesa.

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