On the Road is a weekday feature spotlighting reader photo submissions.
From the exotic to the familiar, whether you’re traveling or in your own backyard, we would love to see the world through your eyes.
Argiope
Late last Spring we found ourselves with a graduation at Mount Holyoke one weekend and a wedding in Buffalo the next. We looked at each other and said “ROAD TRIP!” and, as the song says, got out the map. We wanted to go somewhere new and thanks to the Louise Penny books I learned about from you all, I floated the idea of visiting Quebec.
We headed from MA to Quebec City for about 5 days, then wandered down to Lake Placid overnight and Buffalo for the knot-tying festivities. These photos will focus on Quebec City and later we’ll tour some areas upriver. Quebec City was very European in character, yet we loved not having to do the whole overnight flight thing to get there.
People were very friendly (love me some Canadians) and there is a nice mix of natural beauty nearby plus great restaurants and patisseries. So grab your passports, fill up the tank, and let’s head to Quebec this morning. We could use a nice croissant about now, n’est-ce pas?
Let’s start with the Quebec parliament building, shall we? Late May was lovely in this part of the world, not too hot but with brilliant blue skies. Walking all around this building is possible and encouraged; Quebec City is highly walkable, and there are rental bikes, but you won’t need them near the city center because it’s not gigantic if you stay near the old town or within the old city walls.
Old town Quebec has cobbled streets and lots of pedestrian-oriented shopping. These buildings, beautifully maintained and refurbished, were built in the 1600s—so some of the oldest permanent structures in North America are up here if we don’t count the earthworks made by indigenous folks. This area, officially the historic district, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Another street view of the historic district near the main concentration of art galleries. Need a restroom break? You’ll like this setup: everyone goes in the *same* public restroom. There are…wait for it…stalls inside, so no one can see anyone else’s junk—yet everyone uses the same one! Kids, adults, men, women, non-binary, trans, it’s all good—just wash your hands. Quebec City is proudly gay-positive, with rainbow flags flying on the streets. I’m sure there are plenty of RWNJs, but they are keeping a low profile in the city.
Here’s Notre-Dame-des-Victoires, finished in 1723 and one of North America’s oldest churches, also in the old town. There are more galleries in this area, a giant mural of the city, street musicians, and lots of ambling people—but nowhere near as many as you’d see in most spots in Europe. While Quebec City is francophone, virtually everyone is bilingual and folks were perfectly willing for us to struggle along en francais or change to English for speed and practicality. No judgment. They are very tolerant of Americans even though we elected TFG. People seemed genuinely happy to see us.
And here’s an interior of a different church, Notre-Dame de Quebec Basilica. For those of the Catholic persuasion, it apparently boasts a Holy Door that will be opened in 2025. And get this: it’s the only Holy Door outside of Europe. I have no idea what this means or why this door is a big deal. But the cathedral is a calm and peaceful space for heathens like me who enjoy looking at the architecture and statues. And also, too, resting tired feet.
Here’s the biggest landmark in Old Quebec City: Château Frontenac. It’s big, it’s old (some parts more than others), and you can tour it to see the Art Deco interiors. For a mere $400 US dollars a night, you can say here if you want. We don’t have that kind of budget but enjoyed the history relayed by a period-costumed tour guide. It has an incredible bar with very impressive wine cellars and racks. It’s also located on a boardwalk with a toboggan run, in case the mood strikes you to visit during the winter carnival. I spent a winter in Ottawa as a youth and used up all my cold tolerance then, but for those who enjoy having their snot freeze upon inhalation, this could be a great cold-season time. Enjoy it for me if you go.
Here’s the boardwalk, AKA Dufferin Terrace, with the Chateau Frontenac just to our right but out of sight. Let’s walk in this direction since it’s such a nice day, past the toboggan run, onto La Promenade du Gouverneurs. You rested your feet back there in that cathedral, right? Should be ready for this then.
We just made it up all those stairs, so let’s have a little rest and take a minute to wonder why those gouverneurs were so into promenading while we look over the St Lawrence River, which is pretty wide here. You can see across from up here to the opposite bank and to Ile d’Orleans, where we’ll drive next time when we leave the city proper and go touring around. We’re looking north here, up the St Lawrence, where we’ll also be touring to see some of the towns and lovely spots in rural Quebec. Rested up? Cool, we’ll keep walking up to the Citadel and the huge park overlooking the St Lawrence River. We will wish we had a kite, or failing that, a picnic and a bottle of wine. Alas, all we brought was our water bottles so we’ll sit a spell and then hike back down for a bite to eat.
Just how hungry are we? Well, probably after that hike we are ready for our one poutine of the trip. For the uninitiated, poutine is a dish after Cole’s heart. Take some French fries, cover them with cheese curds, and then smother them with brown gravy or red wine sauce. Feeling adventurous? Add more stuff: bacon, pepperoni, Italian sausage, fried onions, peas, maybe some hot sauce, an egg. This is food you should eat only if you are very young, very hungover, or have just hiked up to the Citadel and back down. Even then, you’re gonna need to pace yourself. Poutine is the most Quebecois thing ever, but fortunately, there is more traditional French fare in this city if you want it, and trust me, you do. Most of it is not extravagant and the exchange rate makes it even nicer.
You know what, maybe we should go for something lighter instead. Like something from a patisserie, a hunk of baguette and some local cheeses, maybe. Or a quiche. Remember that we’re going to a creperie for dinner, though, and save room. Next time, we’ll leave the city and hit a winery on the Ile d’Orleans, visit a really tall waterfall, and maybe see a moose crossing or two. Have a great day, everybody.
eclare
That looks like a lovely and relaxing vacation, thanks!
Winter Wren
Great pictures and text. We’ve been in the city itself in all the seasons but spring and also in the beautiful countryside northwards from Orleans up to Tadoussac. It’s a perfect road trip from the Boston area. Looking forward to your next set!
JPL
I want to go! What a lovely trip.
YY_Sima Qian
Nice! & no crowds!
It’s been 20 years since I’ve visited Ville de Québec. Still have fond memories.
Delk
Great city. We’ve gone for Christmas a couple of times. The snow and decorations make the city even more beautiful.
Another Scott
Great shots and stories.
We enjoyed Quebec a lot, but it was a shock to us that signs, etc, we’re not bilingual. They all know English but it’s really clear that they want everyone to speak (their version of) and write French.
We were surprised how easy and close whale watching was on the Seaway!
Cheers,
Scott.
Trivia Man
One of my few remaining bucket list cities in N America, thanks for the taste. Heres hoping your next set is in Three Pines.
Albatrossity
Wow! Thanks for this. I think it is indeed time for a road trip; that all looks fabulous!
Dagaetch
aaanndd you’ve just convinced me that I need to take a roadtrip there myself. Great pics and sounds like a fun trip!
Hoodie
Spent a drunken Carnivale there in the 80’s. Slept on the floor in an old church. There was a huge parade with marching bands and cheerleaders, it was 12 degrees when it started, got colder thereafter.
Torrey
Thank you for these wonderful pictures and the running commentary. It was like a mini-trip. And I definitely want to visit the place itself.
frosty
We were there a few years ago and really enjoyed it. I see we missed some good food opportunities.
I love your writeups!
JoyceCB
Haven’t been there for more than 40 years. Thank-you for the great photos and memories!
Barbara
We love Quebec City, have been there every few years since our honeymoon more than 30 years ago. A few trips ago we discovered a hotel that we have gone back to every time — not bon marche, but not quite as cher as Frontenac, called the Hotel St. Germain. It’s in the “lower” town, and has a continental breakfast to die for — different kinds of artisanal French bread and cheeses and confiture. They also have a real wood fireplace that they keep going in the winter — including all through the night my husband ended up working during one visit. Thanks so much for the lovely memories!
MelissaM
I’ve been curious about Quebec City since reading Cather’s Shadow on the Rock, and your pictures really make me want to go.
Also if anyone is curious about the Holy Door thing, it’s a way to absolve yourself from sin blah blah:
https://followthecamino.com/en/blog/holy-doors-around-the-world/
Layer8Problem
Thanks so much for this. Quebec is a beautiful city we have to return to. We went there about eight years ago and it was enchanting and friendly. One of my cherished memories is of my partner indulging my need for a martini at the bar of the Chateau Frontenac, with that view of the Saint Lawrence out the big window next to us. And then driving up the lovely Saguenay River, really a fjord.
twbrandt
Those are lovely pictures of a lovely city, and a fun narrative as well. Thanks!
I visited Quebec City on a family vacation when I was very young, now I very much want to return.
opiejeanne
@MelissaM: I think that was part of the plot of Dogma.
Steve in the ATL
Maybe?! The anticipation is killing me!
arrieve
Thanks for sharing these wonderful pictures. Christmas in Quebec City was my last trip before the pandemic and it was really magical. (The tour included Christmas dinner at the Chateau Frontenac, though we were actually sleeping in a much less expensive hotel.) Actual snow, and Christmas markets, and the St Lawrence River full of ice. And that’s where I discovered maple butter, an intensely concentrated form of maple syrup that is wonderful in crepes, or if you’re back home and don’t feel like making crepes, spread on toast.
I want to go back.
Mike in Pasadena
Never been and began planning to go for months. Visited western Canada, but not the east. Thank you for this wonderful post with great photos. Now I really must make our reservations for a flight to a western city and take a train’s sleeper car east to Toronto and Quebec and Niagra Falls etc.
StringOnAStick
Definitely a part of Canada we need to visit, we’ve seen (and skied) a lot of BC. Oh, and that’s how you know you are at zero degrees F or lower; the interior of your nose freezes when you breathe in!
Barbara
@StringOnAStick: Well, skiing Quebec is definitely different. We stayed in QC as a base for visiting a few different ski areas in southern Quebec — most notably Le Massif, a small ski area that is like a little jewel box. My favorite “small” skiing area on the East Coast. If your travel plans and the weather conditions align.
frosty
I was describing our Quebec City vacation plans to a friend and she told me we really had to see Tadoussac, so I added it to our itinerary. We took a boat tour of the Saguenay River among other things. Beautiful place if you can fit it in.
One interesting thing is that there’s no bridge across the fjord. Canadian DOT runs a frequent ferry because it’s cheaper than building and maintaining a bridge. I was worried we couldn’t take our travel trailer across … and then I saw pictures with 18-wheelers.
Emily B.
Thanks for the wonderful photos! Seconding Winter Wren—the coast northeast of Québec City (Charlevoix) is mountainous and very beautiful. Lots of great hikes. Skiing for those who indulge. And an asteroid that hit 450 million years ago (seriously!) carved out a big valley that now includes a lot of farmland. So the food—if you happen to like cheese, sausages, cider, or beer—is pretty great, too.
munira
Love Quebec City. When I lived in Quebec, I took several day trips and once stayed a week for work. The last time I went, I stayed in the Chateau Frontenac because my sister paid for it. Never could do poutine though. Thanks for the memories.
munira
@Another Scott: Quebec is officially a French province – in fact, New Brunswick is the only one that’s officially bilingual even though Canada as a whole is. Even pretty much everyone who works with the public in Quebec is bilingual, English is still not encouraged. Language is a big deal there.
Dan B
I went there with our high school French club in 1966. We rode in one of the teacher’s convertible ip the Thousand Islands. My nose turned black. Quebec City is a wonder.
Winter Wren
@frosty: We saw beluga whales during one ferry crossing to Tadoussac! And the Grand Hotel and dunes are definitely a sight. We also did a great whale watch from a zodiac outfit just north of Tadoussac. My secret fantasy is to just keep driving north from there one day…
Winter Wren
@Emily B.: Yes indeed. Dramatic coastline and great food. In the fall, we timed our visits to Cap Tourmente to see the migrating snow geese – it is an amazing spectacle.
Redshift
I love Quebec City! We went there once for a conference the Ms. was presenting at, and liked it so much we went back, and would go again. I’ve been on the (terrifying) toboggan run; archaeology conferences tend to be in the winter (when it’s not dig season.) Another favorite memory is maple syrup pie — think pecan pie, but with maple syrup instead of molasses, and without the pecans. Total sugar shock, and so good.
I might even be able to afford to spend a night at the Château Frontenac now. If I remember right, it was built as a railway hotel — in the golden age of rail travel, you’d take your luxury train trip and then stay in the luxury hotel built by the railway company.